| The weekly Dog Talk column
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Dear Dog Talk: Mr. Ross, first let me start by saying thanks for giving me that extra something to continue to pursue my goal of becoming a dog behaviorists/ trainer. I am the owner of a beautiful 18-month-old Golden Retriever. After spending 18 years of marriage trying to convince my wife to let me get a dog, she finally succumbed. My 12-year-old daughter and I negotiated our butts off!
My wife always had bad experiences with dogs when she was growing up. She was not thrilled with the possibility of having a dog run, jump, bark and mess in the house. I assured her this would be different.
I began to read all I could on animal behavior and training. It became a hobby and then a passion. What I learned quickly was that simple training was not enough. I had to learn about pack structure, and I had to start thinking like a dog.
Unfortunately, most books that I found went the route of the positive-only approach. To further my experience, I called several training facilities in Houston to try to volunteer and find a mentor. I found out that most of these establishments use the positive-reinforcement-only approach. None taught their clients about pack structure and why it is important to think like a dog.
Needing something, I volunteered at the local chapter of the SPCA in Houston. This experience has been wonderful, and I am learning so much about dogs. But because of the reasons behind many of the animals being there, the staff are afraid to do anything remotely resembling a correction for fear that they are being cruel.
I read about a woman volunteering and having trouble walking a dog in one of your "Dog-Talk" articles, and it hit home immediately! The volunteers and staff are afraid to make these dogs behave. Quick story: Last week I was walking a chow mix dog through the shelter and a young woman was approaching me with a Labrador Retriever that she was walking. The Labrador was pulling her unmercifully. I had my dog sit and look at me, since I did not want a possible problem. As she passed me she said I was being mean, making that poor dog sit there. I "bit my tongue" and said nothing.
I went to the library a few weeks ago to find some books on behavior, when out of nowhere I saw your book, Adoptable Dog. I had been there a million times but had never seen this book. It is wonderful. I can't put it down! Just as I was becoming discouraged because no one seemed to have the same way of thinking I had, I find your book. I loved it so much that I just ordered Dog Talk.
I think your approach is right on! I am determined more than ever to educate and help people live with their dogs. I have seen too many dogs that were brought to the shelter for simple issues. I feel these issues could have been rectified with exercise, structure and boundaries. I have already begun to help some of my neighbors with some behavioral issues. I love every minute of it.
So thanks again for keeping the fire alive, and keep up the good work. If you're ever in Houston, I would love to meet you and just pick your brain of knowledge.
Dear Hope for Dogs in Houston: There are beacons of hope out there in the dog-training world. From time to time I get letters such as yours from people who seem to be in tune with nature and can relate to dogs as dogs. Unfortunately, anthropomorphism seems to prevail. The all-positive training approach is based on an anthropomorphic mind set.
In the late 1970s when I started training through a canine point of view, the prevailing wisdom from the dog training community was that I was too soft and would ruin people's dogs. Ironically, now the prevailing view of the dog training community is that I'm "old school” and a “punishment trainer."
Who cares? I'm just a one-man show touching one dog owner at a time. The dog-training community has never embraced me, but dog owners and dogs have. And dog owners and their dogs is who I've always cared about.
I may not be getting to Houston anytime soon, but if you're ever on the east coast of South Florida, drop me a line. We can take Sophie for a beach hike and you can pick my old brain.
Dear Dog Talk: About two months ago we adopted a male Dachshund/mix from the shelter. We think he might be about a year old now.
The shelter found him as a stray. He was already neutered and knew some basic commands. He will sit on command, give his paw, come when called. He has a great personality and is very loving. However, we have a problem.
He is housebroken, but he has major separation anxiety issues. This started about two to three weeks after we got him. We started leaving him for short periods of time. Each time he pooped in the house (in the same spot every time), and he did some destructive things.
I tried putting paper down where would go, and he did use the paper but he also shredded it up. He also has a problem with submissive urination.
We just purchased a crate, and he was left once with no problem. The second time he defecated in his crate and laid in it. His crate is sized appropriately.
I read your book Adoptable Dog, but I didn't find what I should do for this situation. I haven’t had much luck getting useful information.
I am due to return to work in two weeks. I will be gone from 8am to 1pm Monday through Friday. I am desperate to help him overcome this. I appreciate your help.
Dear Soon Back To Work: If I were in your situation, I would continue to crate the dog. I would rather come home and have to bathe a mini dog than allow patterns of destructive behavior to be repeated. Repeated behaviors will eventually become deep-seated habits.
I would put him in the crate with a safe chew toy. I would leave a radio on, tuned to a talk station. I would not make a big deal out of leaving. Just say, "See ya later" and then leave.
When I came home, I would not scold the dog even if he messed the crate.
There is a good chance that your dog will get tired of sitting in a stinky crate. But if he is not in a crate, there is no chance he will learn to avoid defecating away from where he sleeps. If you leave him loose, he will continue to soil in the house and chew inappropriate items.
If you do not panic and you handle this situation calmly, the odds are good that you will overcome this dilemma. It sounds like you have the opportunity to give a nice dog a chance at a good life.
A far as the submissive urinating goes, follow the advice in the Adoptable Dog book. Please keep in touch.
Dear Dog Talk: We just bought a new Beagle puppy. She is the fourth Beagle that we have owned. Her name is Sassy, and she is! However, she is very sweet and although she has been in our house only a week, she is doing great.
We lost our last Beagle, Sam, several months ago. He was twelve and a great dog. Your story about Crea was poignant. My family really appreciated reading it. I believe all dog lovers could relate to your loss.
When Sam was a puppy we purchased your book, Puppy Preschool. It was invaluable. We followed all of your advice, and the book made Sam's puppyhood a breeze. Sadly we loaned the book to someone and never got it back. Now I'm having trouble finding a new copy. Is Puppy Preschool out of print? I'll be sad if it is.
Dear Don't Be Sad: Congratulations about Sassy. I love Beagles.
Also, thank you for your kind words about the Crea story. I received so many amazing e-mails. Thank you, Dog Talk Readers.
Puppy Preschool is not out of print, but it is in a kind of limbo situation. A new addition of Puppy Preschool is scheduled to be released in January ‘08. I've added some new material and, I believe, improved the book.
In the meantime, you could probably order an original edition from Amazon.com. If you can't find a copy on the bookstore shelf, the store might be able to order one for you. Also, look in your public library. Many libraries across the country have my books.
Dear Dog Talk: I can really relate to your story about Crea. We had a beautiful loving English Springer Spaniel for ten years. We lost her this past March. Prior to her death I underwent chemotherapy for breast cancer. During that time Bentley never left my side except to eat and go to the bathroom. She was such a comfort.
While at the groomer’s Bentley suffered a heart attack. She died on the way to the veterinarian. I feel so guilty that I wasn't there for her.
I have her ashes and can't bear to scatter them in her favorite places. My husband misses her too. He wants to get two Springer puppies. However, I don't know if I could go through this pain again. He keeps telling me to focus on all of the happy times. What do you think? Thanks for listening to my story.
Dear Can’t Bear: I think that it is extremely difficult to lose a beloved family member. I think that you are going through a normal mourning process.
I also think that your husband is right: that it is good to focus on the good times. That’s often easier said than done. Nevertheless, I recommend that you try.
I also recommend that you try to not feel guilty about not being with Bentley when she passed. It wasn’t your fault. There was nothing that you did wrong. It was just an unfortunate set of life circumstances. Don’t waste good energy on something that you could not control.
I do think that you should spread Bentley’s ashes at her favorite places. Let her spirit be free. I believe that it may help you feel a sense of closure. It is not good to spend too much time dwelling on the past unless the thoughts are positive. One of the beauties of dogs is that they live in the moment.
When the time is right, getting another puppy is a great idea. However, don’t get two at the same time. There is a whole litany of problems that come with littermates being raised together. If you want two dogs, get a puppy, train him or her, and a year later get another. In my Puppy Preschool book, I go into detail about the ramifications of raising two puppies at the same time.
Thank you for writing. My thoughts and good wishes are with you.
Dear Dog Talk: I am desperate for help with my Boykin Spaniel. He stares into space as if he is seeing something in the air. He then looks behind himself, becomes scared and hides under the table or bed.
He doesn't snap at the air, like dogs with “fly-snapping syndrome.” He just looks around. He usually starts this after going to bed at night (he sleeps with us). I have had him checked for ear infections and/or mites, but he doesn't appear to have them. The last few nights I have given him Benadryl and this seems to help. He doesn't scratch or lick, he just stares into space. I would appreciate any advice you might have.
Dear Seeing Things: I have no idea what is going on with your dog. Let me remind you that I’m not a veterinarian.
How old is your dog? If he is ancient, maybe he is developing doggie dementia.
Maybe it is an early stage of fly-snapping syndrome, which I believe is a form of seizure. I’ve also heard of mild seizures that resemble a vacant staring.
A while ago, Dog Talk readers wrote to me to tell of their experiences with dogs who could see (or sense) ghosts. Maybe you have a clairvoyant Boykin Spaniel!
I wish I could be more helpful. If you get a conclusive answer, please let us know. Thanks for writing.
Dear Dog Talk Readers: I love kids’ books. For years before I became a parent, I collected children’s book on two topics: islands and, of course, dogs.
I was recently sent a signed copy of a great new dog kids’ book: Demo, the Story of a Junkyard Dog. It is well written by author Jon Bozak and beautifully illustrated by artist Scott Bruns. Like all of the best children’s books, Demo not only tells a fun story but also teaches a valuable life lesson.
Without giving too much away, the book teaches two important lessons. One, that it is not wise to judge by appearances, and two, we must avoid being prisoners of our own junk.
Demo is published by “A Boy and His Dog” publisher. Check out Demo’s website www.demo-dog.com
Dear Dog Talk: We own the puppy from hell! ''Roxie'' is a nine-week-old Labrador Retriever, who is driving us crazy.
She eats her food like she is starving. She tries to eat it before the bowl is on the floor. She is also very aggressive with visitors, constantly jumping on them. We’d really appreciate your help. Thank you.
Dear Join the Club: Welcome to the nutty Labrador Retriever puppy club!
What you are describing is very reminiscent of my first year (or so) with my black Labrador Retriever, Sophie. She was a complete pain in the, well you know…foot. Many Lab puppies can be that way. They are full of energy, love to play and are often very mouthy.
As a professional dog obedience instructor, I have a formula to turn a puppy like yours into a great adult dog. I call it the canine triangle. The three sides of the triangle are obedience training, physical exercise and socialization. Each is equally important, and they are your key to success. Let me elaborate.
Tired puppies are good puppies! You need to find a way to physically poop your puppy out on a daily basis. Fortunately for us Labrador owners, our breed typically loves to fetch. When Sophie was a young puppy I would roll a tennis ball down my long carpeted hallway until she was worn out. As she grew older I would hit tennis balls with my tennis racquet across a field. Sophie would chase them until she was exhausted. She was a very, very good puppy when she was sleeping.
Roxie is not too young to start obedience training. The type of training appropriate for her current developmental stage is what I call “Puppy Preschool.” In fact I wrote a book entitled Puppy Preschool, which I recommend you read. It’s available in libraries and bookstores.
Roxie needs to learn that the growl-like command “Nhaa!” mean to STOP doing whatever she is doing immediately. Roxie needs to be introduced properly to a leash and collar. She also should begin to learn the “stay” command.
When Roxie becomes proficient with “stay,” you should make her sit and stay as her food bowl is being put down. Don’t let her get to her food until you release her with a specific release command, such as “Okay!” Be sure to have Roxie on leash when guests come over. Keep her on leash until she settles while your visitors are there.
A well-socialized dog is made up of three parts. First, a well-socialized dog lives in the house with the pack. Puppies that are sequestered to a pen in the backyard are doomed to be social misfits. They never have a chance to learn how to interact with family members and to behave in the house.
Second, puppies need to interact with all type of people and with other animals. The more people Roxie meets at this stage in life the better. Most dog aggression toward other dogs is caused by fear. Dogs who do not meet and interact with other dogs are often fearfully aggressive with other dog later in life.
That said, bad experiences during puppyhood can also cause dog aggression. Make sure that Roxie does not get beat up by a grumpy adult dog. However, a little growl or snap by any older dog that teaches her to “back off” is okay. Even nice dogs will keep an overly rambunctious puppy in her place. Just use common sense, being careful without being overly protective. Also, if Roxie is going to have to coexist with other animal such as cats, bunnies, goats, sheep, etc., now is the time to socialize her with these critters.
The third part of socialization is exposing your puppy to the sights, sounds and smells of the world. Take Roxie into town and let her see bicycles ride by. Let her experience the sound of a freight train or a motorcycle. The more life experiences that she acquires as a puppy, the better adult dog she will become.
My formula--the canine triangle--is a surefire way to turn a wild puppy into an awesome adult dog. I know that it works, and I have helped many clients achieve these results. Even wild Sophie, who will be four years old in December, has turned into an awesome dog.
Of course, this formula requires a dog owner who is willing to be committed to his or her dog. Perseverance, patience, time and energy are required. I wish every dog owner wanted to offer that! Remember, if it were easy, everyone would have a great dog.
Dear Dog Talk: My husband and I just adopted a very sweet dog named Kita. She is about a year and a half old (they think). Their guess is that she's a Labrador, Boxer and Chow mix. I read most of your book, Adoptable Dog, and it's been very helpful. Thank you!
At the pound they told us they thought Kita was housebroken, but we've found out otherwise. We've had her for five days and she has gone to the bathroom about four times in our basement. So while we're at work (for four hours), we put a gate up so she can't go downstairs. She has never gone to the bathroom upstairs.
Today I came home after being gone for about two hours. Kita had gone potty outside before I left. Nevertheless, she had knocked the gate down and had gone to the bathroom downstairs.
Kita has been let out at least every four hours since we got her. I know I'm going to have to go back to basics and crate-train her. I’m just wondering if an actual crate is necessary. We have a room in our basement that is about 4x10 feet. Do you think that would work? Or should I just keep trying to keep her barricaded upstairs since she won't go to the bathroom in the upstairs? I also have an outdoor dog kennel that's probably 4x10 as well.
We live in the country, but I want Kita to be inside while we’re gone so she's safe. We live close to a road, and there also can be extreme weather conditions here in North Dakota. I also enjoy the companionship of an "indoor" dog.
Thank you for your help. We really need it and we really appreciate it!
Dear North Dakota: If I owned Kita I would crate train her, as your instincts are telling you. In a crate Kita would not have housebreaking accidents, and she would not have the opportunity to chew any inappropriate items. I would make sure that she was never crated more than four hours at a stretch during the day.
Based on the information in your letter, I would crate train for at least six months. Then I would introduce her to short periods of freedom in the house before I left her home alone for four hours.
I agree with you about the yard and don’t recommend leaving her outside unsupervised while you are at work or away from the house. As a valued member of your pack, Kita needs to live where you live. If she we my dog, I would never sequester her to an isolated area in the basement.
If you are 100 percent certain that Kita will not urinate, defecate or become destructive in the main part of the house, you could try barricading her up upstairs, but you are taking a risk. Again, if she were my dog, I would crate her for about six months to shape good housebreaking habits.
Dear Dog Talk: I am a first-time dog owner and was prompted to write when you advised “Can’t Bear” to wait at least a year after getting a puppy to get a second puppy.
My husband and I have a ten month old Yorkshire Terrier. Rusty has brought us great joy! He is smart, very playful, loves people and dogs. We have been contemplating getting a second puppy so that Rusty will have a little buddy to play with during the afternoons.
My husband and I work from home, which is great, because we are able to keep him on a good schedule. However, we can’t give him our attention to play all of the time. There are times when we think that Rusty may be lonely.
Do you think a second puppy will act as a good companion to Rusty? Is it possible that they may ignore each other and leave us with twice the problem that we have now? Also, will a second puppy help or be a hindrance when we eventually introduce children to the mix? Thanks, your opinion means a lot!
Dear First Time: Anything is possible! However, it is unlikely that Rusty would ignore a new addition to the pack--particularly, if the new addition is a little female Yorkie or other playful small dog.
Even if at first Rusty’s is a little indifferent to a new puppy, he will quickly come around.
Yorkies are typically good with children, so as your pack expands the dogs should be fine.
Thank you for valuing my opinion as you increase your pack. Your reading the “Dog Talk” column and taking the time to write means a lot to me.
Dear Dog Talk: I have a question about dog walking. My ten-month-old puppy starts out walking really well. However, she will then start sitting or laying down.
Usually when she does this, I pick her up and carry her for a while. I will then put her back down and try again. Sometimes she walks ok for awhile and then starts doing the laying down thing again.
When she does that, I turn around and head back home. Believe it or not, she walks great on the way back home! Do you think it is because she knows that she in going back home? After I take her back home, then I go for a long walk by myself.
I don't want to drag her when she lies down. But I did read somewhere that that is what you should do. Is this true? I have even considered getting a doggie stroller so that I can take her with me when I walk. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks!
Dear Walking Alone: I do believe that your puppy walks fine on the way back to the house because knows that she is going home. At home, she feels safe and secure. She is nervous about the world that she is unfamiliar with and that is why she is balking. The only way to get over a fear is to face it.
However, don’t drag your dog. Doing so may work sometimes with some dogs. But dragging a dog can also result in a dog that hates the leash and hates going for walks. It is also a technique that might result in an injured dog.
A hundred years ago (almost!) when I worked as a veterinary technician, I helped treat a dog that was a victim of this dragging “procedure.” The owner had been advised by a so-called trainer to put her Sheltie the leash, go for a mile walk and not stop no matter what the dog did.
She dragged her dog along the sidewalk for half the walk and abraded the skin off all four of the dog’s foot pads. The poor dog could hardly walk for almost a week. That’s not training; it’s dog abuse.
Try this instead. Boil up an all-beef hot dog. Cut it into small chunks. Put the hot dog chunks in a plastic baggie and take it with you on your next walk. When your dog puts on her brakes, hold a chunk of hot dog right in front of her nose and lure her forward.
When she starts to move, praise her and let her have a small taste. Then use another hot dog chunk to continue to lure her forward. Every twenty to thirty yards give her a little taste of hot dog. As she is moving forward with you, praise her using a pleasant tone. In all likelihood, within a few weeks (or in a few hours if she’s a food-obsessed Labrador!) your puppy will be enjoying your walks together.
Dear Dog Talk: I wondered if you could possibly help me with a little problem I am having with our two-year-old German Short-Haired Pointer. Meadow is a typical pointer: very active, very friendly and very trusting except when it comes to trimming her nails. She will not let us near her feet while we are holding the clippers.
I have tried taking her to a groomer to have them trimmed, but they expect me to hold her with her head in a loop while it's being done. This is not a good experience for either of us. Lately, I have just tried to get her comfortable with me just holding her paw. However, she always makes sure that I'm not holding the toenail clippers. She jumps all over the place if I do. Any ideas? Anything would be sincerely appreciated!
Dear Fidgety Feet: It is really hard to evaluate through a letter how unnerved a dog truly is by toenail trimming. All dogs hate this grooming procedure, but some dogs much more so than others.
With my dog, Sophie, it started as a two-person procedure. My wife would hold her with one hand through her collar and the other hand controlling Sophie’s head. Barbara would lightly restrain Sophie. Heavy and/or tight restraint seems to cause dogs to panic.
Also, I asked Barbara not to praise or say anything to Sophie throughout the procedure.
I would then trim each toenail starting with the front feet and then the back. When Sophie wiggled, I would growl “Nhaa!” and tell her “Stay.”This worked well with Sophie because she understood that “Nhaa” meant “Stop” and that “Stay” meant “Be still.”
I was careful to only nick the tips of Sophie’s nails to make sure that they did not bleed. If toenail clipping hurts, nervous dogs become even more nervous. After the procedure was over both Barbara and I praised Sophie and she got a dog cookie.
We did this for almost two years together before I could trim Sophie’s nails by myself. Sophie still hates it, but she lets me do it. If this does not work for you, bring Meadow to a veterinarian. Veterinarians have assistants, so I’m sure that a veterinarian could get the job done without your having to help. Please let me know how things go.
Dear Dog Talk: My Golden is getting very old. His hips pain him too much to walk far. We have stairs that scare him. He’s blind and only hears when I yell. He has growths around his lymph nodes. He moves to lay beside me on the floor and still barks when he senses a vibration outside the house. The winter will be very cold for him, and he will not want to go outside to relieve himself. I hate to see him go.
My question is: How do I put him down? The veterinarian put my last dog down. It was very sterile, and they would not let me bring her home to bury her. I tend to do most things myself anyhow….
Dear How Too: I do not know of a more humane way to put a dog down than the euthanasia procedure performed at a veterinary clinic. Besides that, I don’t know if it is legal for a dog owner to kill his or her own dog. Before you do anything I recommend that you check out your state’s laws regarding this issue.
I also don’t know why the veterinarian would not allow you to take your previous dog after she was euthanized. Is there some sort of state law prohibiting pet owners from burying their dog? Or did the vet just want to stick you with a cremation fee?
My suggestion is to find a veterinarian who will come to your home and humanely euthanize your dog. Then, if state and local laws allow, bury your dog on your property.
Dear Dog Talk: I came across your article online tonight as I was Googling “euthanasia.” I am struggling with making this decision. My dog, Cooper, is a four-year-old Soft Coated Wheaton Terrier. He is not sick, but within the past year or so, he has become aggressive. He has bitten several people in my family and last week bit me. He left a bruise on me so black and blue that I had to get a tetanus shot.
Dear Dog Talk: In a recent Tribune-Review “Dog Talk” column, you note that a dog guardian should find a veterinarian who will come to the home to perform euthanasia when it becomes necessary.
I know that this topic has long been discussed and that it is a service for which there is a great need, but can you confirm from personal knowledge that there are veterinarians who will do this? I know of none in my area.
I hope that this procedure will become the norm in the future, but I see no evidence that it is available now. The pain that animal guardians endure when the end of the pet's life comes is magnified by having to go to a busy veterinary office for euthanasia. Caring
veterinarians should want to avoid putting their clients through this additional trauma.
Dear How-to-Find-Them: I have known veterinarians who performed this service. When I lived out on Nantucket Island, the veterinarians at the MSPCA veterinary hospital routinely helped clients in this way. Also, I’ve had a couple people here in South Florida tell me that their vet came to the house to euthanize their old dogs.
That said, I don’t know how commonplace the practice is throughout the rest of the country. I also do not have any first-hand knowledge of this service being available in the great state of Pennsylvania.
Are you certain that no vets are willing to come to your house? Did you query all of the veterinarians in your area?
Drop me a line, Pittsburgh-area veterinarians, if this is a service that you do provide to your clients. If you do not, I would be interested to know why not.
Dear Dog Talk: I read your column online. You mentioned that your Labrador, Sophie, is a great beach dog. I have a Golden Retriever who is six years old. Coco is also a great beach dog.
We live out on Long Island in the state of New York and love to hike the beach. My question is: How do you deal with annoying people who can’t control their dogs? I run into them all of the time! And they drive me crazy.
Dear Crazy About the Beach: I rarely run into problems with dog owners at the beach were Sophie and I walk. I have found a quiet stretch of beach, and I try to avoid super-busy times. However, recently I had a dog owner say an extremely dumb thing to me.
We encountered each other on the beach while hiking with our dogs. We allowed the dogs to interact for a few minutes. Her dog wanted to jump all over Sophie. Sophie didn't get grumpy toward the dog; she essentially just ignored her. All Sophie was interested in was fetching her Frisbee.
While the dogs interacted, I asked the woman about her dog. She told me that the dog was being trained for Schutzhund. This is a type of European training that involves obedience, protection work, etc.
After a short while the woman clipped her dog on a leash, and we headed our separate ways in opposite directions. After the woman got about fifty yards down the beach, she unclipped her dog from the leash. The moment she unclipped the leash her dog came racing back down the beach after Sophie! The dog wasn't being aggressive--she just wanted to play.
The woman stood where she was shrieking the dog's name and the command "Come." The dog completely ignored her. Finally the woman marched down the beach, grabbed the dog and leashed her. I watched her verbally reprimanded the dog until she was eventually out of my sight.
About an hour later while I was having a conversation with a lifeguard friend of mine, the woman walked by heading toward the parking lot. To be polite I said, "Sorry about the chaos. Come on command takes a lot of practice."
Her response was, "I'm not worried about it. My dog just has a tremendous amount of drive. You don't train a dog like her the same way that you do a pet by beating them into submission."
Now this person obviously knows nothing about dog training. I have to question how much her Schutzhund trainer knows, to have a student who is this misguided. I have no idea what this individual was talking about. I don’t think she had any idea who I was. I also don’t know why she would believe that the reason Sophie is so well behaved at the beach is because I "beat her into submission." How insulting! Sophie is a happy, well-adjusted dog--the product of excellent obedience training, lots of exercise and socialization with people and other dogs. Her perfect behavior on the beach is a testament to that.
Outside of this one incident, I can’t think of any other recent run-ins with dumb dog owners on the beach. My advice: Ignore them, appreciate your well-behaved dog and enjoy the beach!
I have never been a dog lover. I didn't want a dog. My husband wanted one, and we got one. However, I absolutely fell in love with him. Cooper is, for the most part, a loving, sweet dog.
Since we got the dog I have had two children. One child is eighteen months old, and the other is three years old. I fear that Cooper will go after them. Although I don't think he will, I don't want to wait for it to happen.
We have trained Cooper since he was a puppy, and this past year have seen the behavioral specialist at our veterinarian's office. I feel like I have put so much time and effort into training, and it hasn't worked well enough, because it has come to this.
Of course I feel terrible guilt. If only I took more time to train him. If only I took time away from the kids and gave Cooper more exercise. Now we are struggling with what I think is the answer...euthanizing our beloved Cooper. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Dear Struggling: Dogs have been my passion and livelihood for over thirty years. Nevertheless, the safety and welfare of your children and mine are of far greater importance to me than any dog.
I suggest that you keep Cooper away from your children until you make a decision on his fate. From what you have said in your letter, it sounds as if there is more going on with Cooper than extra training and exercise would have cured. It sounds to me that you have tried hard to turn Cooper into a good family member. Don’t dwell in guilt. It is not constructive to do so.
When owners are in the situation you describe, it’s rarely the case that the dog is 100 percent “all bad.” More typically the dog has a sweet side and even an obedient side, which makes it that much harder to evaluate the situation and determine if the problem requires the extreme step of euthanasia.
Don’t feel that you have to make this decision without help. Your veterinarian and the behavioral specialist should evaluate Cooper and discuss your concerns with you. If they feel that he could fit into another home without being a danger, than have them or your local humane society try to place him. If they believe that Cooper is a dangerous dog, you will have to face the unpleasant task of having him put down. Good luck.
Dear Dog Talk: I am trying to find an archive article of yours regarding my problem. I have a twelve-week-old Australian Shepherd. She is a very sweet and smart dog.
The first two nights that I had her in her crate, she messed, and it was all over her and the crate. I had the divider in, and the space was only big enough for her to lie down. I thought that maybe since she was raised for the first eight weeks in a barn, that the change of environment was too much for this baby.
I started taking her to bed with me. She will wake me up once, do her business and then go back to sleep until she wakes me up in the morning. I tried to crate her again a week later, and I woke up to a mess again.
My Labrador never messed in her crate as a young puppy, and she slept through the night. Is the Aussie too young to sleep through the night? And why is she messing in her crate? She also did this once after taking her out to do her business. She didn’t go, so I put her in her crate. Within five minutes, she messed in her crate.
I am too busy to be cleaning her and the crate at 4 AM! I need my sleep, but I don’t want to be sleeping with her for much longer. Please help.
Dear Tired: I don’t know why your Aussie puppy is messing in her crate. This behavior is typical of pet store puppies that spend an inordinate amount of time in a crate. These puppies get used to soiling their sleeping area, and sadly, this behavior becomes difficult to stop.
It is possible that at eight weeks old she is having a hard time holding it through the night. It is not uncommon for owners to have to get up in the middle of the night to take a young puppy out. I’ve done it with some individuals for up to two weeks.
In your letter you did not say where your crate is kept. It should be in your bedroom right next to your bed. That way if your pup starts to fuss, you can quickly get her outside before she defecates.
If the crate is not in your bedroom, try moving it there and see if it helps. Make sure that your dog eats nothing after six o’clock in the evening. No water after eight pm. Try to get her to “empty out” before you go bed.
Good luck! I hope you get a full night sleep sometime soon. Puppies are a lot of work.
Dear Dog Talk Readers: Gastric torsion, or bloat, is a serious and potentially life threatening condition that afflicts many large breeds of dog. The risk of bloat is higher in dogs that gulp down their food, swallowing a lot of air at the same time.
Bloat occurs when a dog’s stomach becomes distended with air to the point that the stomach can rotate, cutting off the blood supply to the stomach and other major organs. Emergency surgery is required to untwist the dog’s stomach, or death is imminent – even with surgery it’s estimated that one third of dogs who experience bloat will die.
Some dogs are more susceptible to bloat than others. Large, deep-chested breeds such as Standard Poodles, German Shepherds and Great Danes have the highest risk. A new product was recently brought to my attention that might help avoid this awful condition. It’s described below.
Better Bowls Help Dogs Slow Down at Meal Times
Contech Electronics, designer of the ScatMat® pet training mat, introduced two ways to help dog owners encourage healthier eating habits in their pets. The EatBetter™ and DrinkBetter™ bowls help slow the rate at which dogs eat and drink. The bowls offer pet parents a simple and effective way to help correct the behaviors that can lead to digestive problems such as indigestion, vomiting and even “bloat.”
EatBetter and DrinkBetter employ unique design elements to help encourage healthier eating habits. The EatBetter incorporates a unique wishbone-shaped center that slows down your dog’s eating by creating an obstacle that prevents gulping or vacuuming behaviors that can result in your dog swallowing air. The DrinkBetter uses a unique float that controls the amount of water your dog has access to; this helps slow drinking down, keeps ears dry and minimizes water spills. The modern, aesthetically designed bowls are made of food grade plastic and are available in eye catching brushed pink, blue and translucent white.
The Eat Better™ and Drink Better™ bowls are now available from Contech. For more information, visit www.contech-inc.com, or contact 1-800-767-8658 or info@contech-inc.com.
Dear Dog Talk Readers: The holiday season is here again! It is time to start thinking about some gift ideas for favorite dogs and dog owners. Here are some suggestions that have been brought to my attention. Have fun shopping, and enjoy the holidays. Tails up, John Ross
Collectible Dog Figurines by Ron Hevener
Over 200 designs -- Most breeds -- Many sell for $25.00. Each hand painted with care in the studio at Hevener Farms. Ask to have them shipped directly to your family and friends. www.ronhevener.com
Doggie Must-Haves
Classics-loving dogs will jump with joy to receive an Air KONG from the KONG Company. This line of toys is inspired by the classic tennis ball, but takes it to a whole new level. Air KONGs use durable materials that can be found in any high-quality tennis ball but feature an improved felt covering that cleans easily and won’t wear down a dog’s teeth. They are also available in fun shapes and sizes, such as a bone, a football and even the classic KONG shape. Air KONGS are available at Petsmart, Petco and other leading pet stores.
Clean dogs will love being able to clean their mouths with a KONG Dental Toy. Dental KONG toys, including the Dental Stick, Stuff-a-Ball and Jumping Jack feature patented Dental Ridges that help clean dogs’ teeth as they chew on the toy. The toys can also be used with KONG Stuff’N Pastes to ensure the dog stays interested in chewing the toy, including Breath Treat, with ingredients specifically formulated to attack bad breath.
Dizzy Dogs will love chasing the Crazy Pet Spinmeister. The Spinmeister is a durable, rubber, flying disk that is still soft on a dog’s mouth. Its unique design soars but is also easy to throw and catch. And, since it can be folded and placed in a pocket, the Spinmeister is portable. The toy can be found online at www.crazypetshop.com or your favorite pet store for $11.99.
Athletic Dogs will love playing with the Crazy Pet Tug, Toss, & Tumble, but whether they’re tugging, tossing, or tumbling will all depend. The Tug, Toss & Tumble can be used as a fetch toy, a tug-of-war toy and a simple chew toy that moves unpredictably as a dog plays with it. The unique toy is made of patented red, durable rubber and stands up to most dogs’ play. The Tug, Toss, & Tumble is available in two sizes, small and large, for $4.99 and $6.99 respectively.
Classy Dogs will love the Durapet bowls from OurPet’s. Far surpassing the traditional dog bowl, Durapet bowls are made of chic stainless steel and feature a permanently molded rubber ring to prevent sliding and the messes that come with it. The stainless steel is also healthier than a plastic or ceramic bowl, and last longer. They’re even dishwasher safe. Available in a variety of sizes, the Durapet bowls start at $5.49 for a .75 pint dish and go to $17.99 for a 4.5 quart dish. They’re available online and at fine pet stores everywhere.
Intelligent dogs will be intrigued by the Molecuball from OurPet’s. Dry kibble or treats are easily loaded into the Molecuball, but not easily released. Dogs have to work for the treats by rolling the Molecuball around, stimulating them both mentally and physically. It can also be used to feed dogs one or all of their daily meals, slowing down voracious eaters, which may help digest food better, absorbing more nutrients. The Molecuball comes in two sizes for $5.99-9.99. It’s available at PetSmart and online.
A Green Christmas: Pet Lovers Think “Natural” When Cleaning Up Holiday Accidents.
The excitement of the holidays can sometimes be a little overwhelming for a pet, leading to accidents, even if a dog is trained. It’s a good idea to keep cleaner easily accessible this time of year. But some of the cleaning products used to treat doggie mishaps aren’t good for the environment or even the people using them.
This holiday season, why not make it a “green Christmas” and use an earth-friendly stain and odor remover. One example is ecoPure Naturals Odor and Spot Remover, a biodegradable solution designed specifically to clean up after pet accidents. It uses the natural power of enzymes to break down stains, spots, and odors, rather than chemicals that can be hard on the environment, both in their use and production, such as butyls, acids, or bleaches.
Since enzymes actually destroy the particles that leave the stain and the odor, rather than covering the smell up, ecoPure Naturals Odor and Spot Remover is also more effective than many traditional cleaners. Once an area is “marked,” dogs are stimulated to mark the area again by the faintest whiff of their own scent. And pooches, with their infamous snouts, can distinguish scents much better than humans and detect much smaller traces of a specific smell. With the scent erased by the enzymes in ecoPure Naturals Odor and Spot Remover, dogs won’t be stimulated so they’re less likely to have a second accident.
In addition the odor-removing power of enzymes, ecoPure Naturals Odor and Spot remover, is scented naturally to make human noses happy. For more information on the ecoPure Naturals Odor and Spot remover, visit www.ecoPureNaturals.com.
Dear Dog Talk: I am writing out of pure frustration. I am a teacher who crates her dogs daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. I adopted a sister and brother Bouvier des Flandres in May. They will turn one year old this month.
I did private lessons with them for obedience training. The male is potty trained, but the female still has accidents. The accidents increase after she has eaten the wrong things, such as feces, plants, dirt, sand, etc. The past two nights have been really bad.
I have dogs for companionship, not to keep them in their crate (or outside) their entire lives. I want them to be able to sleep on the floor of my bedroom at night. I also want them to be able to hang out with the family in the house.
This is an example of their schedule. After letting them outside for an hour to eat and to do their business, I let them inside to hang out. Before I go to bed, I let them out to potty again. Often when I let them out, they will both just lie down on the deck and not even go into the yard. Nevertheless, ten minutes later, upon their return to the house the female will poop and pee on the rug. She doesn't do it in one place. And yes, I have yelled at her while she was in the act but still no positive results.
I am really at my wits’end and feel that I am doing everything I can. I read your Dog Talk column in the PA Tribune Review and have reviewed the FAQs on your web site.
When we had the dogs spayed and neutered, we wondered if there is something wrong with the female’s digestive system. However, I ruled that out because I figured that the veterinarian would have noticed something when they operated on her.
Occasionally, we will take her to a relative's farm and take her off the leash. She will run a mile in large circles before she poops. Where we live we cannot let her run loose off the leash. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Dear Getting Down To Business: There are a few things that you are doing that I would suggest changing. You said in your letter that you let the dogs outside for an hour to eat and to do their business. Dogs don’t like to urinate and/or defecate where they eat. I would bring the dogs inside to eat and then bring them outside to do their business.
Also, letting the dogs outside to do their business is not a good approach with an un-housebroken dog. You need to go out with the female dog and visually document that she has “done her business” before you let her back in.
One hour is way too long. Ten minutes is all she needs. Put her on a leash, walk her around a designated area and say, “Hurry up, Do your business,” or some similar command.
If she empties out, she can then come in and have freedom in the house. If she does not, she should be put in her crate for fifteen minutes, then taken outside for another opportunity to get the job done. Only after you have seen her “do the job” can you give her freedom in the house.
We may be talking semantics here, but one should not “yell” at the dog when they catch the dog in the act of soiling in the house. Dogs don't understand yelling. It is not part of the canine language. One should growl “Nhaa!” using a throaty guttural sound.
You also said that housebreaking accidents occur more often after she has eaten the “wrong things,” such as feces, plants, dirt, sand, etc. When does she get into these things? You have to run a tighter ship and not allow the dog to eat inappropriate things. Supervise more closely, and growl “Nhaa” as she is about to ingest unwanted debris.
Lastly, I don’t know if it is affecting your housetraining woes, but crating a dog for eight hours a day is too long. Four hours should be the maximum. If you can’t leave school midday to give the dogs an hour-long reprieve, I recommend getting a friend, neighbor or professional dog sitter to come in and help out. Doggie day care is another option.
I hope some of these ideas help your situation. Happy New Year!
Dear Dog Talk: I read your column every week. I see time and time again that you advise against crating a dog for more than four hours during the daytime. If it isn’t possible for the owner to arrange for an hour break for the dog, perhaps an inside/outside kennel is the answer.
Homes with basements or garages can be converted very easily and with little expense. You’ll need a chain-link kennel for the inside and a larger run for the outside. These can usually be bought pre-made. You’ll also need a dog shelter for inside, or just a dog bed if the area is warm and free from drafts.
If there is no shade outside, you’ll need a shelter there also. Pick an area of your basement or garage (usually on the wall to the side or back yard.) Have a professional install a steel door that includes a doggie door.
If you have a below-ground basement, you’ll also have to install steps or a ramp. Install the chain-link kennel indoors, and attach it securely to the wall and floor. Install the chain-link run outdoors and, again, attach securely.
Make sure the outdoor run has a chain-link “roof” to prevent your dog from jumping out or to prevent another animal from jumping in. To prevent digging under the fence, you may want to extend the chain-link fence 24” below ground.
Provide your pet with shelter, water and toys. Now she has her own “room” and can go outside to relieve herself or just to get a little exercise while you’re gone.
Dear Handier Than Me: Thanks! This sounds like quite a project, but it’s a good arrangement for a dog that must be alone all day. Keep in mind that, from my perspective, dogs are family members and should not live 24-7 in a kennel run. As long as your dog has time with you and your family, plus exercise, he should be fine.
One more thought. A dog alone outside may be (or become) a chronic barker. That’s not fair to your neighbors and is not healthy for the dog. Be sure you have a way to get occasional feedback about the success of your outdoor run arrangement—whether it’s to report on excessive barking, stray dogs that hang around or anything else that might develop during the 8-10 hours you’re away from home.
Dear Dog Talk: Hello. I read your Dog Talk column on the internet. I’m pretty sure that our dog will be put down tomorrow. What is the best way to deal with our second dog? She is two years old.
Should I just let her absorb the fact that her pack member is gone? How do I know if she knows he is gone? Should I get another dog so that she has company?
I am very sad that my dog is going to be put down. He has been in my whole life. I’m really concerned about my female dog. Please help me.
Dear Sad Day: I would not have her in the room while the euthanasia is being performed. However, I recommend allowing your female dog to come in afterwards to see and sniff her pack member after he is euthanized.
I have done this with my last few dogs, and it seems to make a difference. Dogs that I have allowed to see and sniff their deceased pack members appear to handle the loss with much less confusion. They do not spend days or weeks looking for their pack mates the way other dogs have when I have not done this.
Don’t be surprised if your female dog acts nonchalantly when she checks him out. My dogs looked and sniffed, and that was that. There were no overt signs of sadness or anguish. But as days went by, they seemed to understand what had happened.
I may be totally anthropomorphic about this. I always warn my students not to be anthropomorphic with their dogs, which means putting human thoughts and feelings into nonhumans. I wish I could say that I knew what dogs think about death. I guess I won’t know for sure until I come back as a dog in a future life!
Adding another dog to the pack is a good idea. However, I suggest waiting a little bit. In their own way, I do believe dogs mourn the loss of fellow pack members. Give her at least a couple of weeks. Spend lots of time with your dog. Take her for long walks. You may need them, too, to deal with your sadness--perhaps even more than your dog.
When you do add another dog, I recommend a male. Male-female is the best combination for harmony.
I’m sorry about your loss. It is the hardest part of dog owning. Have a great New Year.
Dear Dog Talk: We have a wonderful sixteen-month-old German Shorthair Pointer named Lexi. She seems to do well in all social situations with one exception: babies and toddlers.
When she was about ten months old, a friend brought over her two-month-old baby. Lexi was confused of what to make of this newcomer. Although Lexi’s tail continued to wag, she backed away and barked. At times she ran away or ran in a circle for a minute or two.
Flash-forward to last month. Our baby visitor is now ten months old and experimenting with walking. Upon arrival, Lexi reacted the same way to the toddler, wagging tail, occasional barking and backing up (and occasional walk-by sniffs).
Lexi calmed down after awhile but always appeared wary of this strange creature. When the baby was placed on the floor and began to walk toward her, Lexi ran away. Her tail was still wagging, however she barked with more earnest. Lexi would not come near the baby.
This makes me and my husband worried. We feel Lexi is afraid of the baby, and we know that fearful dogs might bite. Do you have any suggestions on how to de-sensitize Lexi to small humans?
Dear Parents of Perplexed Lex: You’re right, Lexi is afraid of the baby, and frightened dogs do sometimes bite. Also, wagging tails do not always indicate friendliness. Frightened dogs often wag their tails. It is a sign of their anxiety.
When my daughter was a baby, we had four dogs in the house and, at times, they were kind of “freaked out” by her. However, they grew accustomed to her by hanging around the highchair. My daughter would drop Cheerios on the floor, and the dogs would obligingly clean up for her. This was totally an example of positive reinforcement training!
Our dogs were never left unsupervised around our young daughter. We always watched them like a hawk. When they were in the same room with her, they were put into a lying down position and made to stay. We did not allow the baby to crawl or toddle over to the dogs. How did we stop her? The same way we stopped her from crawling or toddling over to our hot woodstove. Child and dogs alike learned the meaning of the word “No.”
Also, my wife would take a dog or two on long walks with the baby in her stroller. Each day she would alternate dogs. Walks are a great bonding tool. The walks helped the dogs get used to being around the baby and helped them to accept her as part of the pack.
If Lexi does not do a reliable “down stay,” I suggest that you get to work teaching her this obedience exercise. Always have her on a leash and under control around this baby and all other children. See if you can visit the baby and allow Lexi “clean up duty” around the highchair. It will take some time for Lexi to feel confident and familiar around kids. In the meantime, be astute and careful.
As much as I love dogs, a child’s safety and welfare is more important to me than any dog. Good luck!
Dear Dog Talk: I read a recent Dog Talk column about a Cairn Terrier afraid of noises, such as fireworks, thunder, etc.
My husband & I had a Rottweiler with the same problem, and we dreaded 4th of July. Our veterinarian prescribed a mild oral sedative that did the trick. This might help your reader “Terrier in a Tizzy.” I hope this helps.
Dear Dog Talk: I read your Dog Talk column each week in the Tribune in Pittsburgh, PA. I enjoy the stories and tips that you provide.
Recently I read about Zoey the Cairn Terrier. I could immediately relate to these people and poor frightened Zoey. I too had a dog afraid of noise.
A veterinarian in my area, who has a weekly radio program each Saturday on KDKA in Pittsburgh, provided something that may help Zoey and family. It is a homeopathic medicine. It is called Aconitum or Actonite 30c. It is purchased at General Nutrition Center. However, it may have to be ordered.
They are very tiny pills, given by the weight of the dog. My dog was a Shetland Sheepdog. I gave her 6 pills twice a day prior to a storm (or if you knew a noisy situation was going to happen). My dog loved them, and it was no problem giving the pills.
These pills helped my dog. I hope you will pass this information on to Terrier in a Tizzy, to help Zoey.
Dear Animal Lovers: Thanks for the tips. I love input from my Dog Talk readers.
That said, I am not a veterinarian, and I’m not at all familiar with this medication. My advice to all readers is to get the okay from a licensed veterinarian before trying these (or any) pills with your dog. Never use any kind of drug or supplement without the approval of a licensed veterinarian.
Thanks for taking the time to help. It seems it takes a village to raise a dog. Where do I come up with these original clichés?
Dear Dog Talk: Hi. I’m hoping you, the expert, are able to help me. My beloved
male dog, Elvis, is thirteen years old. He has always been our baby, and he is very spoiled.
Recently, we rescued some kittens and fostered them in a spare bedroom in our home until we found homes for them. We decided to try to keep one of the kittens. He is
little sweet kitty. However, Elvis does not like it at all. The kitty is not afraid
of Elvis at all! He wants to be his friend because he misses his brothers.
But Elvis nips, barks and chases the cat. Even when Elvis settles down a bit, he
will just act nervous. I think he is afraid of the kitten.
Should I keep the cat or find a new home for him? Will Elvis learn to adjust? Is it fair to Elvis to keep the kitten? I want to give Elvis the best in his elderly years. If you think this is not good for Elvis, I will try to find a good home for this loveable kitten. We do keep the kitten in a spare bedroom at night and when we are not home. Thanks for your help.
Dear Nothing but a Hound Dog: We, too, recently adopted a “little sweet kitty.” Sometime in the near future I may have to turn the Dog Talk column into the Cat Talk column for a week and share with readers the story of how Ellis Ross, black kitten extraordinaire, entered my life.
My black Labrador Retriever, Sophie, had been socialized with a cat before Ellis showed up. Neville Ross (the older cat) was a family member before I acquired Sophie. Nevertheless, Sophie wanted to chase and harass the new kitten. A couple of firm “Nhaa’s” and a week or so of keeping her on-leash in the house got Sophie to leave the kitten alone.
However, even though Sophie is also “spoiled” (Elvis may be the king, but Sophie definitely is the queen!), she is obedient and only four years old.
I would hate to see you have to give up the kitten, because I know how loving and fun a sweet kitten can be. However, here are some questions that you have to ask yourself.
How is Elvis’s health at age thirteen? Is the stress of a kitten in the house going to hurt his health? If this addition to the family is going to make Elvis sick, I would not keep the kitten. Elvis is a canine senior citizen.
Is Elvis obedient enough that you can control him around the kitten? Dogs are pretty adaptable creatures, and the fact that the kitten is not afraid is helpful. If you can control Elvis, the prognosis is good that he will adjust.
Would Elvis injure the kitten? If the kitten’s physical well being is in jeopardy, you should find him a safe home. These are questions that only you have the answers to.
If you think that you can control Elvis, then get out the leash to help manage him in the house. Let him know that the pack leader (you) does not want him harassing the kitten. With a little training, this could be the start of a beautiful friendship.
Dear Dog Talk: We have an eighteen-month-old Shetland Sheepdog named Larry. We got Larry from a rescue organization when he was about six months old. He was very malnourished. Larry is now at a healthy weight.
We always leave food in Larry’s bowl, and he eats when he is hungry. Larry is afraid of loud noises, such as thunder or a loud motorcycle. Whenever he hears a noise that scares him, he goes to his food bowl and will push one of his stuffed toys or his blanket over the bowl until he covers it completely. Then he will go lay down.
We also have a five-year-old Sheltie who has never done this. I don't think this is a normal Sheltie behavior. Do you have any idea why Larry does this?
Dear Sheltie Lover: I took the liberty of calling your Sheltie “Larry” because you did not provide me with a name. I agree with you that Larry’s food bowl-covering behavior is not typical Sheltie behavior. I believe that this behavior is Larry’s own unique idiosyncrasy.
Who knows why he is doing this. My only logical conclusion is that Larry believes that he is hiding his food.
Many people would say that dogs are incapable of this kind of abstract thinking. Shelties are a highly intelligent breed, and I would never underestimate a canine’s capabilities. There is a lot more going on between those furry ears than science gives dogs credit for!
Take my black Labrador Retriever, Sophie. I think she’s a genius. She can annoy me into giving her evening meal, normally served at 5:30, at 3:30 in the afternoon. My kid can’t even do that!
Dear Dog Talk: I have recently adopted two five-month-old male puppies from our local shelter. The problem is that my year-and-a-half-old Labrador Retriever, Ralph, doesn’t seem to care for them. On several occasions Ralph has attacked them, drawing blood.
We are keeping the puppies in a pen, until we can put in an invisible fence, so they don’t get on the road. We let the pups out of the pen whenever we are at home. They are outeyTheT all day on the weekend.
Ralph is very laid back and doesn’t wander much. Ralph has never been neutered, although I have considered it. Will neutering the Ralph as well as the two puppies help him to like them? When I finally let the puppies out of the pen for good, will this help Ralph to get use to them?
I hate it when Ralph growls at them, and it is even more upsetting when he attacks them. Ralph is a very sweet and loving dog to my husband and me and to our two female dogs. He just doesn’t care for the male puppies.
Dear Boy Trouble: For today your Labrador is “Ralph.” People, I implore you! Please provide me with a name for your dogs. If your goal is to keep your dog anonymous, make up a name.
If you are going to live with a pack of five dogs, you have to become undisputed pack leader. Or you will have chaos.
Neutering your male dogs can help your situation tremendously. Intact male dogs are inevitably going to fight. That said, I’m not insinuating that neutering is a substitute for training, exercise and socialization--or for being a strong pack leader. However, neutering definitely helps.
Spaying and neutering our pets is the duty of all responsible owners. It is my opinion that only dogs in the hands of reputable and experienced breeders should be left intact.
Put your pack members on leashes and take them for long walks. Long walks with the pack leader are a great way for dogs to acclimate and bond with each other.
Are your dogs obedience trained? If not, get going with a training program. Enroll in a local dog obedience class or pick up a copy of Dog Talk, Training Through a Canine Point of View and start training a home.
If you want to live with a pack, the “Canine Triangle” is imperative. Obedience training, adequate physical exercise and proper socialization are the formula for success.
Dear Dog Talk: First let me say that we've enjoyed your column for years. We have a yellow Labrador Retriever mix named Koda. We adopted Koda ten years ago when she was about eight months old. She was pregnant when we adopted her.
Koda had a litter of ten puppies. We kept one of the pups, Sam, whom we lost to cancer in March. This was a very stressful time for all of us.
We could not stand the emptiness left by Sam, so we adopted a twelve-week-old Lab/Shepherd mix puppy. Bandit is now eighteen weeks old. He will be neutered when he is six months old.
The only problem is that Bandit constantly jumps up and down trying to lick Koda. This behavior seems very stressful to Koda. Koda has a habit of licking her wrist raw when stressed. She has done this off and on over the years. She also has arthritis and has a hard time dealing with Bandit.
We have made it a point to give extra affection to Koda. We also take the two dogs on separate walks. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
Dear Koda and the Bandit: First off, let me say how sorry I am about your pack losing Sam. Losing a beloved family member is always very difficult.
Even though Bandit joining the pack seems stressful to Koda now, I believe in the long run his addition will prove beneficial. It always takes a little bit of time for an older dog to adjust to and accept a new puppy.
The time that you spend training and caring for Bandit will help occupy time that may have been spent thinking about and missing Sam. The same goes for Koda. Staying busy dealing with Bandit--growling at him for acting like a knucklehead puppy and teaching him how to fit in with the pack--will be good for Koda.
Because of Koda’s arthritis, you are going to have to supervise closely. Try to minimize how much he jumps on her. Keep Bandit physically pooped out. He will be less inclined to bug Koda if he is curled up sleeping. Nevertheless, Bandit is still going to find time to pester Koda. She’s the interesting “big sister,” after all. In all likelihood Koda will teach Bandit some manners, canine style.
I suggest that instead of walking the dogs separately that you walk them together. Leash walks together are a very good way to promote bonding. During your walks, train Bandit to walk properly without messing around with Koda.
Bandit is at the ideal age to begin obedience training. Either enroll him in a class or get out your copy of Dog Talk and start daily practice sessions. Obedience training will help you manage Bandit’s behavior in general but especially when he gets too bratty with Koda.
I know I’m a broken record, but quality obedience training, adequate physical exercise and proper socialization is the formula to a well-trained dog. I call it the “Canine Triangle.” It’s foolproof!
Dear Dog Talk: This is in reference to the letter from “Dear Animal Lovers” who suggested Aconite for the dog (“Terrier in a Tizzy”) who is afraid of loud noises--thunder, fireworks, etc. The pill this owner suggested is a single remedy homeopathic pill, historically useful for exactly that problem. Aconite is listed in the Homeopathic Pharmacopeia of the United States, registered with the F.D.A. These pills do help and cause no harm.
Dear More Input: Thank you for more information about “Aconite.” I must reiterate that I am not a veterinarian and am careful not to give medical advice. I also caution readers never to give their pets any medication unless it has been given the okay by a licensed veterinarian.
Dear Dog Talk: We recently adopted Jonesy, a nine-week-old male black Labrador/Springer mix. We are crate training him and are trying to follow your guidelines from the book Puppy Preschool.
We have a spot for him to eliminate. We take him there on the leash, give him 5-10 minutes, and if he doesn’t go we put him in the crate. At first, he would eliminate in his crate, but he has thankfully stopped doing that. Usually if we bring him back out after 10-15 minutes in the crate, he will eliminate in his spot outside.
The problem is that he will come right back in and urinate somewhere in the house, sometimes only a few minutes after eliminating outdoors. Is he marking territory? Do you have a recommendation to stop this behavior? Do we just keep watching closely, saying no and bringing him back outside? Thanks so much.
Dear Double Puppy Piddler: It is doubtful that Jonesy is marking territory. He is way too young for that. However, it is not impossible. Is he lifting his hind leg and urinating on walls and/or furniture? Or is he squatting when he pees? If he is lifting his leg, it is a marking issue.
The cure is a well-timed verbal correction, such as “Nhaa!” which sounds like a growl. Also, consider getting Jonesy neutered as soon as your veterinarian recommends.
If Jonesy is squatting when he urinates, the first thing I recommend that you do is have your veterinarian check his urine for a possible bladder infection.
My black Labrador, Sophie, was a “double pee-er” when she was a young puppy. She would do the same thing that Jonesy does. She would go outside, urinate, and then come back inside and urinate again. At first, I just stayed outside with her until she urinated a second time.
Unfortunately, the problem did not improve. In fact it became worse. Sophie would urinate twice, come back into the house and five minutes later urinate again. I asked my veterinarian about it, and she suggested that we do a urinalysis. It turn out that Sophie had a raging bladder infection. It took a couple of series of antibiotics to clear up the problem. Once the bladder infection was cured, Sophie quickly stopped having housebreaking accidents.
Jonesy may not have a bladder infection, but one should always rule out a potential medical problem before attempting to resolve a behavioral problem through training.
If it turns out that Jonesy is medically fine, you need to give him the time to do two pees outside. And yes, watch him closely after he comes in. If you catch him urinating in the house, growl “Nhaa!” and take him back outside.
Remember, good timing is essential. Never correct a behavior after-the-fact. The best time to correct Jonesy for a housebreaking accident is when you anticipate that he is about to urinate. The next best time is in “mid-stream.” After-the-fact is too late and will only confuse him and undermine his trust in you.
99.9% of the dogs that owners accuse of being “stubborn” to learn are in reality confused. And it is their owners who are confusing them because of bad timing.
Dear Dog Talk: I want to start by telling you how much I enjoy your weekly column in my local Sunday newspaper. I have a cat, which I must admit I don't have many problems with. However, both of my children have dogs, and I find your column helpful.
The reason I'm writing you today is my son’s little Maltese. He is the sweetest dog, but whenever we go for a walk and he comes upon another dog, he barks and gets so excited he pulls on the leash really hard. He just goes nuts!
Also, when we are riding in the car and he sees someone on a motorcycle or we go through a turnpike booth, he barks his head off at the people.
He's not mean and won't bite people, he just barks and goes crazy. He won't stop barking until you pass the people. I think he just wants to see the other dogs and people, but his barking is quite annoying.
I would appreciate any help you could give us. This is their first dog. They are trying
their best but just don't know what to do with the barking. Thank you.
Dear Dog Is Nuts: There are a few things that need to be done. The first is part one of the Canine Triangle: obedience training. Even an adorable little Maltese needs to be obedience trained.
He needs to learn Controlled Walking, which teaches the dog to never pull on the leash under any circumstances. He needs to learn to respond to “Nhaa!” which means “stop.” It doesn’t mean “You’re bad,” or “I’m angry,” or “I don’t like you.” It simply means “Stop whatever you are doing immediately.” Your little Maltese also needs to be taught Quiet on Command.
To control barking in the car, I would consider a citronella bark collar. Citronella bark collars set of a fine mist of citronella spray whenever the dog barks. The citronella mist is not harmful to the dog in anyway, and the collars work quite effectively.
The other two sides of the Canine Triangle are equally important for your Maltese. Allow him to be socialized with the dogs and people he get so excited about. There is no getting around it: Un-socialized dogs act out.
Even toy breeds need side three: physical exercise. If your Maltese likes to fetch, before your leash walks, sit in a chair and roll a ball down the hall in your house. Ten to twenty retrieves prior to your walk will put your Maltese’s mind in a calm place. Tired dogs are good dogs!
Dear Dog Talk: I have a cat named “Peaches” that is spraying urine all over my house. She has been spayed. She goes on the carpet, sprays the walls, radiator covers, everything!
The veterinarian told me Peaches had behavioral issues caused by stress over the two new dogs that I took in last January. However, we found some spraying on the walls prior to my getting the dogs. The dogs now stay downstairs, and my two cats are upstairs. I thought by separating the animals, things would change but it has not.
I tried the product “Felaway” to no avail. Do you think this spraying may be due to a medical condition? There has been no weight loss and Peaches appears to be healthy. There is no crying (meowing), so I can’t tell if she has something wrong. I feed her California Natural food.
The veterinarian guesses that Peaches is approximately five years old. She was a stray that I took in four years ago. Since I have two cats, I can’t be sure it’s only the one cat. But I did catch Peaches one time urinating on my daughter’s bedroom floor.
What avenue should I take at this point? Thanks for your time.
Dear Dog Talk Goes to the Cats: This column is called “Dog Talk,” and even though I live with two cats that I love, I am by no means a feline behavioral expert. Dogs are my expertise. My two cats independently coexist with my family. I have consciously trained them to do…nothing.
I’m also not a veterinarian, so I’m not qualified to determine if Peaches’ behavior is caused by a medical disorder. If I had a spayed female cat that was spraying urine in the house, I would ask my veterinarian if a hormonal imbalance could be the cause.
I may be “opening a can of worms” by doing this, but if any of my “Dog Talk” readers have any clue to what might be going on with Peaches, please drop me a line.
I decided to respond to this cat letter because it give me an opportunity to write about the newest addition to the Ross pack (or pride): Ellis Vanderbilt Ross. He’s a cat.
I mentioned Ellis in a column several weeks ago and have received many letters requesting that I talk about how he joined my family. A friend suggested that his middle name should be Vanderbilt, because of his excellent good fortune in finding us!
Last November, my family visited Captiva Island off Florida’s southwest coast for the Thanksgiving weekend. When we returned home, I stepped onto the screened porch at the back of the house and heard faint meowing. I called my wife, Barbara, to listen. At first she thought the sound was a bird. But, I said, “No, it sounds like a kitten.”
I put on a pair of work gloves and moved a couple of kayaks that were against the house. Under the kayaks in the high grass was a little black kitten. He was tiny. His eyes were still newborn-blue.
I carried him around to the front porch. Barbara went inside to get some cat food. I was reluctant to bring the kitten inside because of fleas or potential diseases that he might spread to my Labrador, Sophie, or to Neville, our cat.
I placed the kitten near the food bowl, but he bolted under the house—a space of about two feet. I could not crawl under there.
For three days he would not come out. He just meowed this pathetic little cry that kept getting weaker and weaker. We were completely distraught at the thought of this kitten dying under the house. I couldn’t sleep. I felt sick.
I kept putting fresh dishes of Neville’s wet food along side of the house where the crying sounded the closest. We watched and watched. He would not come out.
On the morning of the third day I filled a small bowl with the water from a can of fancy albacore tuna. That did the trick. About an hour later I saw him lapping away from the bowl. As soon as he spotted me, zoom! back under the house. But at least he was getting some fluids and nourishment.
Over the next 36 hours he would come out and lap tuna water. I spent a small fortune on fancy albacore! As soon as he spotted us looking at him, under the house he went.
I decided on a bold move. I moved the bowl up onto the front porch. Sure enough, he came up to eat. From the front door window we would watch him lapping away. He usually had little bits of tuna and tuna juice smeared on his tiny face.
I was a little obsessed with watching for him. I’d see him and call to the girls, “Come quick! The kitten is eating.”
After a day or so I sat on the front porch and waited. The tuna juice bowl was several feet from my chair. Up came the baby to eat. However, one movement or flinch on my part would send him packing. But he was getting braver.
Before long I could quietly come out the front door and sit in my chair while he was eating. If I made no abrupt moves, he would hold his own and eat. I talked to him in soothing tones and he would look at me and meow in a squeaky little voice.
Next I moved the food bowl right next to my chair. The kitten came over to eat. After the third time, I made my move. I reached down from my chair and scooped him up.
I am not too embarrassed to say that tears immediately welled up in my eyes. This baby was nothing but skin and bones. He had literally been starving to death.
I put him into Neville’s cat carrier, and we were off to the veterinary office. Actually I was going to bring him to the humane society. It was my wife who convinced me that we should first get him checked out by a veterinarian. “He will be much more adoptable if he is cleaned up and has been given a heath exam,” she pointed out.
Several hours and $230 dollars later, the baby cat was declared essentially healthy. He weighed only 13 ounces. It took two baths to rid him of fleas! He got vaccinations and blood tests. We were given appropriate kitten food to feed him. The veterinarian guessed that he was three or four weeks old.
I called Barbara to give her the update. I knew two minutes into the conversation that the little kitten was not going to the humane society. The Ross family had an unexpected new addition. His name came from the initials L.S. that stood for a nickname I had given him. That evolved into Ellis.
I don’t know how or why Ellis ended up under our house. I don’t know what happened to his mother or littermates. I do know that he has been a gift to us. He is all black with beautiful yellow eyes. We declared his birthday to be on Halloween. He is the sweetest most fun little guy. He thinks, well, that I’m his father.
I’m not a cat expert. I’m a dog guy. But I dog-love this little Ellis!
Dear Dog Talk: I have Cole, a fourteen-year-old black Labrador/collie mix that I got in college in Arizona. Cole now lives with three cats, my pregnant wife, my son and me in North Carolina.
Cole has had a very healthy, active and pampered life for the better part of the past twelve years. My wife and my father--the two people on this planet who love and care for Cole and know him almost as well as me--have started to talk about the possibility of putting him to sleep sometime soon. They both absolutely adore this dog and would want to see him put down in a loving way. My dad even thinks that he would fly here from Wisconsin to be with Cole when the time comes.
Cole has been on pain medicine for arthritis for about a year. He is also taking a daily general multi-vitamin and a daily dose of glucosamine.
I am sad to think about putting Cole down, but I know he has had a long happy life. I do know that he feels some pain. I see it in his face and body. I do not want it to get to a point where he is severely suffering, but I am not sure when that point will be.
I have been told to keep him restricted to a few very short walks a day because of his pain. I do not hear him yelp, cry or make noises. However, he does move much slower most of the time and will fall from time to time. Cole eats less and overall has a pretty routine day with not a lot of attention. It seems as though the overall quality of life is down.
The veterinarian said an indicator for putting an animal down is to measure their good days against their bad days. It is hard to tell, but I do know he is having some rough days.
It just breaks my heart when I look at his deep grey eyes and see the puppy that I love underneath it all. It saddens me that I cannot talk to Cole and have him tell me how he feels. It also saddens me to think that he could be in constant pain and that I do not know the full extent.
Lastly, another reason I am concerned is that I have often heard that once dogs start to deteriorate, they escalate downward pretty quickly.
Do you have any recommendations based on this information or any guidelines for what may be helpful? The latest veterinarian that examined Cole reported that he had a good heart, good lungs and good ears. However, his vision is poor, his liver is declining (probably due to age and medicine), and Cole’s arthritis is advancing along.
I know there isn’t too much that you can say. This is a tough situation because it is not like Cole has been diagnosed with cancer or anything, but I also do not want him to suffer needlessly. He has had such a great life up until now.
Lastly, we are expecting a baby in October. The veterinarian mentioned this could cause some unwelcoming stress on Cole. Thank you for your thoughts.
Dear Tough Situation: You are facing a tough situation. A fourteen-year-old Labrador is an old guy. Death is part of the circle of life. That said, it is never an easy situation when we face the prospect of losing a beloved family member. The best that any of us can hope for is that our time here has been lived in peace and to the fullest. It sounds as though Cole has been one of the fortunate ones.
You’re right there is not a lot that I can say. However, I will share with you my personal criteria for making that tough decision with my own dogs when they reach extreme old age or illness.
If my dog cannot stand up and move about, I will opt for euthanasia. I once carried my fourteen-year-old German Shorthaired Pointer, Jena, from her dog bed to the backyard for a week. It wasn’t until she fell over while attempting to urinate that it hit me that I was doing this for me, not for her. I did not want to let go. I will try to never make that mistake again.
When my dog stops eating and/or drinking water, I believe that his or her time has come. I do not want to watch my dog starve to death. Dogs will not live long if they stop drinking water. They will dehydrate and suffer. I prefer humane euthanasia.
Lastly, if a dog has lost complete and irreversible control of bladder or bowel functions, I will opt for euthanasia. I would find it difficult to live with a dog that I had to clean up after, day after day.
These criteria are my personal guidelines. That does not mean that they are right for every dog owner.
I do agree with you: I wish dogs could tell us how they feel. But they can’t. This is the hardest part of pet owning, and it never gets easier.
I wish you the best with Cole. Don’t lay a guilt trip on yourself. Do what is right for him.
Better days are ahead for your pack. In October, there will be great joy in your life. The circle continues.
Dear Dog Talk: I read with interest the Dog Talk column about Larry, the Sheltie who covers his food with a blanket. Our five-year-old Sheltie, Dori, has always had a tendency to cover her food if there is something like a blanket lying nearby. Otherwise, she will just eat the food.
Dori has even tried this if the bowl is placed on wall-to-wall carpeting. She will rub the carpet in the direction of the bowl, and then tap the bowl with her nose and keep repeating this sequence. The bowl is normally placed on ceramic tile!
If Dori’s older "sister," Nikki, does not eat her food right away, and there is a towel lying nearby, she will cover Nikki's bowl, too. Dori also will cover a rawhide bone with newspapers, or any clothing that is beside it. All of this is done by pushing with her nose.
It took me a while to figure out who was piling a perfect mound of dirt around our
pooper scooper shovel in the garden, until I began noticing Dori's dirt covered nose. Once at the barn, when I was clipping roots at the bottom of the compost pile and set the clippers on the ground, Dori promptly covered them with dirt by using her nose.
She has never dug with her feet!
Dori is a well-adjusted, very laid-back Sheltie--the best I have ever had. We purchased her from a breeder when she was between seven and eight weeks old. We enjoy her immensely.
I am wondering if you have heard from many other Sheltie lovers who have experienced this hiding tendency. Out of four Shelties that we have owned, Dori is the first to do this.
I enjoy reading your column in the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review.
Dear Root of the Problem: Are you sure that Dori is not part piglet? Only kidding! I know that in the wild, canines stash food by burying it. This could account for these Shelties wanting to cover their food.
However, I’ve always assumed that wolves and coyotes use their feet to dig. The rooting behavior of Dori’s sounds very unusual.
Keep sending me Sheltie stories Dog Talk readers. Maybe a new book, The Unusual Idiosyncrasies of the Shetland Sheepdog, will transpire!
Dear Dog Talk: I wonder if you would address for the benefit of your devoted readers how you select a veterinarian.
This topic comes to mind for me over a level of dissatisfaction that I have with the veterinary practice that I have been using for my three dogs for several years. It is a large national chain, which is highly-profitable and whose services are quite expensive. It offers a depressing, small insufficiently-sized waiting area where fights between animals can brew.
Although there are evening and Saturday hours, one cannot be assured of obtaining an appointment with any of the doctors on short notice without paying an additional $75 emergency fee. And then, the client is sometimes switched to a doctor other than the veterinarian with whom the appointment is scheduled and without prior notice.
Thanks very much for the benefit of your experience and wisdom.
Dear Good Question: Trial and error is one approach. In the nine years that I’ve lived in South Florida, I’ve switched veterinarians three times. I like the practice that I’m presently using, although the prices are outlandish. At least in my opinion they are.
I guess what I look for in a veterinarian is a person who acts like they truly care about the well being of my animals. I also want someone who communicates well with me.
In addition, I want someone who does not make me feel as though “the bottom line” is of primary importance to them, even if at the end of the visit the bill makes me nauseous.
I have never price-shopped the veterinarians in my area. I’m not trying to insinuate that they collude with each other and price fix. However, my impression is that in this area their prices are all essentially the same.
I think it is very difficult for a lay person to judge the medical competency of a veterinarian. An introverted grumpy individual might be the most medically knowledgeable and competent physician. A nice, personable individual may be a hack who barely made it though veterinary school.
Unless we hear horror stories from former clients, all we can do is trust our intuition. In your case you may want to try a smaller private practice where you will receive more personalized service.
Thanks for writing. I welcome comments from readers about what you look for when selecting a veterinarian. I also welcome comments from veterinarians as to what qualities they think pet owners should look for.
Dear Dog Talk: HELP! My family has a ten-week-old Shih Tzu, Bella. We have one problem with her. She will not leave my slippers or shoes alone. Every time I step into the kitchen, she continues to go after my feet.
I read in your Puppy Preschool book that I should use a firm “Nhaa!” but nothing fazes her. My husband growls “Nhaa!” in a much stronger voice, and she will stop. However, it only lasts for about two minutes. What should I do? Thanks!
Dear Puppies Do These Things: Ten-week-old puppies love to play, play and play. Feet, whether bare or wearing slippers or shoes, can be irresistible.
You are on the right track. A corrective growl “Nhaa!” is what you want to do. If “Nhaa” works for your husband, it can work for you. Try to emulate the growl-like sound your husband is making.
To add authority to your correction, bend at the waist and hover over Bella as you growl “Nhaa!” Use your eyes to stare menacingly at her. Use a stern facial expression. You must appear to be a dominant mother dog if Bella is going to take your growl seriously.
If the sound of your growl and your body language are not effective, use your hand to grab a little loose skin at the back of Bella’s neck. Do not pick her up off the ground by the scruff, and do not shake her. Just grab a little neck scruff and firmly growl “Nhaa” as you look in her eyes.
Also be sure that your timing is right. Try to correct Bella just as you anticipate that she is about to attack your feet. By anticipating the behavior, you are communicating to Bella not to start attacking your feet. If you are late and correct her while she is munching your toes, you will teach her, at best, to stop the attack on command—not to avoid starting it in the first place.
If you are really late and correct her after she has just finished attacking your foot, Bella will learn nothing from your late correction.
Coming back for more and doing it again two minutes later is the puppy’s job. It’s fun! Your job is to make it not fun, with a correction that’s timed at the right moment for Bella to understand the message. Be consistent. No matter how many times Bella attempts an unwanted behavior, you need to counter with a well-timed, corrective growl. It may take multiple repetitions before Bella learns to leave your feet alone.
I’ve had puppy owners tell me that they growl “Nhaa” at their puppies so much in the early stages that they fear that their puppy might think his or her name is “Nhaa!” I understand. It’s hard work training a puppy. If it were easy, everyone would have well trained dogs.
Dear Dog Talk: I have read your column for years and have written before to you. After reading the Sunday August 10th column, I wanted to share my opinion on the question of when to euthanize a dog.
We lost our much loved, fourth sheltie, Sunny, just two weeks ago. He was thirteen-and-a-half years old. That is a good old age for a Sheltie.
We had been questioning Sunny’s health for about a year. He had really slowed down. The veterinarian said that he had arthritis. Sunny was on medication for arthritis, but he never really acted like he was in pain. He would still bark when the neighbor walked her dog by our yard. Sunny still ate well and followed me everywhere I went.
The only thing that Sunny could not do anymore was go up and down the stairs. I would carry him every time I would go up or down.
Sunny also had become incontinent, and I consented to a doggie diaper. He was seen by the veterinarian several times for this. The veterinarian felt that it was just an old age thing and something I had to deal with. So I made sure he got out every hour or so, and he kept the diaper on in the house.
About six months ago, he had what seemed like a stroke. Our veterinarian scheduled a visit at our home. During the two days before the appointment, Sunny could barely stand. He could not get up on his own and would not eat. I really felt that the veterinarian would want to put him down. However, a few hours before the veterinarian arrived, I turned around and found Sunny standing right behind me. He had recovered! The veterinarian checked him out and advised me to wait and watch. For six more months, we had Sunny again. He was really doing well.
Then one day after being out for a few hours, we came home and I called him as I usually did. As soon as I opened the door, Sunny walked outside, did his business and followed me back to the house. I carried him upstairs, got dinner ready and then we sat down to eat. Sunny was lying on the floor beside me as he usually did.
As always, I tossed a small piece of bread to him. Sunny didn't touch it. I picked it up and held it in front of his nose. He ignored the bread.
Sunny then lay down on his side. He seemed to be breathing hard. There were small convulsive movements of his legs. I sat by him and stroked him. Sunny’s gums seemed white and cold. Sunny’s breathing just came slower and slower. Finally his eyes closed and he was peacefully gone.
I was glad that I didn’t have to put Sunny to sleep. I guess what I want to say in this tale is: don’t rush euthanasia, but also don’t let your friend suffer. I was lucky.
Dear Missing Sunny: Thank you for sharing Sunny’s story with us. I’m sure that it will help some Dog Talk Readers.
You were lucky. Most old dogs do not pass on as peacefully as Sunny did. Sunny had also been lucky for thirteen and a half years. It sounds as though Sunny was a well loved and well cared for dog. He lived with a great pack leader.
Dear Dog Talk Readers: Wow, I received so many great letters from readers responding to the “Doggie Nose Burying” column. Here are a few of them. Thank you for being such an interactive audience. I really appreciate you!
Dear Dog Talk: I just read your column about Dori, a Sheltie who buries food with her nose. We have a Border Collie mix, Sam, who does a similar thing.
Sam doesn't bury her food or dog treats, but she will carry a rawhide to a corner of the room and try to bury it by using her nose. Of course, with wall-to-wall carpet, nothing actually covers the chew, but she'll hide it this way and then prance off as if no one will know that it's there.
Interestingly, we also have a miniature dachshund, Odie, who sometimes tries to cover his solid waste in the same way. He uses his nose to try to push the grass over it. Neither dog ever tries to cover anything else. However, they definitely use their paws to dig--especially in the flower bed! Thanks for a great column.
Dear Dog Talk: I read your Dog Talk column about a Sheltie who buries using her nose. Growing up we had several dogs over the years, one Beagle and mutts of largely terrier persuasion, who would take pieces of their food and using their noses, try to bury it in random areas of the carpet. We never had more than one dog at a time, so they could not have learned this from each other.
One of our terrier mutts used to use her nose to bury treats in the folds of a partially filled beanbag chair. She would actually get partially onto the beanbag chair to cover over the food. My mother's current dog, a “Cockapoo,” tries to bury treats on carpet and the linoleum floor. Maybe dogs have a bigger imagination than one might think! Thanks for your column.
Dear Dog Talk: I read your Dog Talk column about Sheltie behavior that involved burying food with her nose. We adopted two German Wirehaired Terriers from a shelter in Maryland eight years ago, when they were seven months old. They are littermates.
The larger one, Bismarck, is stable and normal. However, the smaller one, Kaiser, has some problems. One thing that he does is the "burying" behavior described in the column on the sheltie. He uses his nose to try to bury food into deep pile carpet. Or, he will shove a blanket with his nose to cover the food.
Both dogs dig normally with their paws. They have cratered their exercise yard in attempts to get to chipmunks.
I'm not worried about this behavior, because it is infrequent, but he does the nose-burying thing only to "hide" food, not other articles.
Dear Dog Talk: I love your column and today's Sunday August 17, 2008 made me smile with the memory of my dog, Abbey, who passed away in 1994 at nearly 13 years old. She would very often go through the motions of “covering her food.” I thought that maybe she didn't like the food at times and was pretending to cover it.
Abbey was small (15 lbs) with silver hair that was very soft. I got her when she was six years old, sight unseen. She was the funniest looking pooch but the absolutely smartest dog I have ever owned. She passed dog intelligent tests with flying colors!
When shown a snack with a dish towel put over it, Abbey promptly lifted the towel with her mouth and threw it aside. She did each of many “tests” in a fraction of a second.
Once I came home from a week away, and my son said that Abbey had laid by the door the entire week. An hour after I got home, I went to bed for a quick nap without her and closed the door. She went upstairs into my son's room (where she would never go before) and cried to him. He thought she needed to go outside so followed her downstairs. But instead of her heading toward the front door, she went into the hall and turned to look at my son and yipped at him. He followed her to my bedroom door, looked up at him and pawed at the door. She was clearly solving the problem of wanting to get into my bedroom by going to get someone who could open the door!
If you gave Abbey a new snack, like a marshmallow, she would mouth it, throw it in the air and then retrieve it. She would repeat this tossing procedure for about 10 minutes before she would finally eat it. Abbey would entertain herself with a familiar treat by covering it up with her rag-toy. She would then throw the rag-toy into the air, then throw the treat into the air, then again cover it and repeat for long sessions.
I could go on and on about Abbey’s peculiar and funny ways. She was lovable and sweet, and I still miss her. Thank you so much.
Dear Dog Talk: I read about Larry and Dori, the Shelties that cover their food with their noses. Our Doberman, Zoe, does the same thing.
She will push the carpet by her food bowl until her nose bleeds sometimes! She has scars on the top of her nose from this. When I see her do this, I take a cloth and cover the food, and then she is happy.
Zoe also “air-pushes.” It is very funny to watch. She doesn’t really push her nose on the carpet but just pushes the air. Maybe she learned that it hurts and it makes the top of her nose bleed! I love your column in Tribune Review. Abundant Blessings.
Dear Dog Talk: I’ve had a number of dogs that at one time or another tried to bury things with the nose-shovel technique. My dogs were not a specific breed but the average mutt. It usually involved a food item.
One dog even dug a small hole with just a few paw strokes and gently placed a pilfered pancake into it. He proceeded to nose the dirt back over the treasure, checking to see if the pancake could be smelled through the dirt cover. About two hours later he went back and dug up the treasure and enjoyed it, dirt and all. I think it might be a survival technique from wild ancestors. It is just a wonderful quirk of our wonderful pets.
Dear Dog Talk: Hi. I wanted to ask you your opinion. We just got our nine-week-old German Shepherd puppy. We are not certain whether we want to put a kennel outside with a doghouse, or if we can have his doghouse outside and install an invisible fence.
The doghouse is actually going to be adapted from my children's playhouse. It has several levels and accesses. It also has great ventilation and shade. We think he will enjoy making it his outside place.
I am concerned that being such a smart breed, he will feel frustrated and bored in a confined area. He would spend time there while we are at work and the kids are in school. The majority of the rest of the time, he will be in the house with us. This outside kennel is for when he will not be supervised.
The main benefit with the invisible fence is that we can section off the shady, wooded area, which is pretty big. He could enjoy exploring and learning, etc. Or he could get into trouble!
We live in Virginia, in a subdivision with neighbors and other dogs. There are squirrels and the occasional deer. The weather is pretty mild all year round.
Do you have any advice about what you would do if this was your dog? I appreciate any comments. Thank you so much.
Dear Out of the Woods: If your German Shepherd puppy were my dog, I would have him live in the house while I was away at work. I would crate train him and use the crate until he was around a year old. I would never leave him crated for more than four hours at a stretch.
I would arrange my schedule so that I could get home midday and let the puppy outside to urinate and/or defecate. I’d spend some time playing with him, and then I would re-crate him until either my kids got home from school or I got home from work.
If it were not possible to arrange my schedule in this way, I’d hire a pet setter to come in midday. If I couldn’t afford a pet setter I would ask a friend, neighbor or family member for help. If none of these options were possible, I probably would put off getting a puppy until I had enough time to do it right.
You are correct in that German Shepherds are a highly intelligent breed that can easily become bored. And boredom is a leading cause of behavioral problems in dogs. However, left unsupervised outside in the yard for several hours a day is not the right way to combat canine boredom. Your German Shepherd is going to dig holes in the yard, chew any bushes or shrubs he can get to and bark incessantly. He very well may become overprotective of his perceived territory. This could lead to unwanted aggression, not only to squirrels and deer but to people and other dogs that may pass by your property.
I like and endorse Invisible Fence, but it is a mechanical device, and no mechanical device is 100% reliable. It is possible that a dog can escape from the yard. I recommend that Invisible Fence only be used when someone is home keeping an eye on the dog. Also, Invisible Fence will not prevent other animals and children from inadvertently wandering onto your property.
If your Shepherd is going to develop his natural protective tendencies, it should be in your house protecting the pack’s “den” while everyone is away.
Canine boredom needs to be prevented in constructive ways--through obedience training, plenty of physical exercise and proper socialization. Done the right way, a German Shepherd is a great breed and a loyal pack member. Done the wrong way, Shepherds are a breed that can become a dangerous liability.
That’s what I would do if your puppy were my dog. Good luck and thanks for writing.
Oh, by the way, the new edition of Puppy Preschool is now available at all major book stores and on Amazon.com.
Dear Dog Talk: Is it too late to train a dog that is ten years old? When I first adopted my Cocker Spaniel/Poodle mix, she had "occasional" accidents. Now it is all the time. My rugs are horrible, and my house smells. I need new rugs and furniture desperately.
The veterinarian thought maybe a trainer would work. I hate to spend the money if my dog wouldn't respond. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks so much.
Dear “Occasional”: It is easier to teach an old dog a new trick than it is to break an old dog’s long-time habit. If your “Cock-a-Pooh” has been soiling your house for ten years, it may be real tough to change this behavior. However, nothing is impossible.
If I were going to attempt it, I would use the same housebreaking approach that I would use if I had just adopted the dog. Consistency is essential to help your dog learn what is expected.
Pick up a copy of my book, Adopting a Dog, in your local library or bookstore and follow the housebreaking formula that is outlined.
Also, I wouldn’t invest in a new rug and furniture until my dog hadn’t had a housebreaking mistake for a full year!
Dear Dog Talk: I have a five-year-old female dog named Casey. She is the only dog that my husband and I have. When other dogs in the neighborhood come into the yard, Casey will whine. She wants to go outside and run in the yard with them.
Because we thought Casey would like a playmate, we took in a four-month-old puppy that a lady was giving away. We figured that the puppy would give Casey some company during the day when we are at work. The puppy I brought home was also a female.
The whole first night that the puppy was in our home, Casey continuously drooled and salivated all over the place, including on the puppy. She panted really hard and had a bug-eyed look. Casey would cower away until I would pet or play with the puppy, then she would grab the puppy by the neck. I had to call the lady that gave us the puppy and ask her if I could bring her back.
I will admit that Casey is spoiled. However, I’ve now had some people tell me that Casey didn't get along with the puppy because the two dogs were of the same sex. If I were to get a male puppy, would that make a difference--or would I have the same outcome? Thank you.
Dear All Shook Up: It is true that there is a better prognosis for harmony to exist between dogs of the opposite sex. However, there is no guarantee that Casey would be happy with a male puppy in the house, either.
The continuous drooling, salivating, panting and the “bug-eyed look” indicate anxiety and stress. Along with the cowering, it could also possibly indicate a fear response.
If I were interviewing you on the phone, I’d ask what breed or mix of breed Casey is. I’d also want more details about Casey grabbing the puppy by the neck.
It’s possible that a puppy is too much for Casey to handle. Puppies behave and smell differently than adult dogs. Plus they have seemingly endless energy and an urge to play. Perhaps an easy-going adult dog would be a better choice for adoption in your home.
I suggest that you get a professional dog trainer/obedience instructor to evaluate Casey’s personality and temperament around other dogs.
If you do decide to try another puppy, there are more effective ways to introduce dogs to each other. One example is to take both dogs on a long leash walk together.
If you do attempt to bring another dog into the house, either a puppy or an adult, drop me a line and I will go into more detail on proper canine introduction. Thanks for writing.
Dear Dog Talk: I just ran across a short dialogue on the web between yourself and someone who wants to become a dog trainer. This person was confronted on all sides by the "positive-only" pathology.
I'm a trainer out in the San Francisco Bay area and have been dealing with this issue for years. Recently I was invited to offer a seminar at an annual area dog show. I'm pretty sure that I want to address this whole destructive issue of political correctness in dog training. I think I'll title my seminar, "Bringing balance back into dog training: positive-only training and the culture of political correctness."
No doubt my talk will anger some people. But I'm convinced that "positive-only" training, while an understandable response to the harsh training methods routinely employed in so many circles, has done more to damage owners’ relationships with their dogs in recent years than anything else I can think of.
This was brought to light a couple of years ago when I was giving a seminar at the annual Animal Care and Control Conference in Los Angeles. Two animal control directors told me that they thought they'd seen an upsurge in surrenders directly linked to this training methodology. However, they couldn't speak up for fear of losing their jobs. Wow!
At any rate, I was heartened to read your response to this new dog trainer because so often I feel like some kind of lone ranger out here. I am being accused by my competitors as being a Neanderthal, sadist, Nazi, etc.--all of this because I use a balanced approach. My approach combines the intelligent use of treats, corrections and various psychological methods. Most importantly, I teach owners how to develop solid relationships with their dogs.
So, as I'm starting my research, I'm looking to connect with anyone who shares a similar view. If you have any thoughts, I'd be all ears. Thanks.
Dear Kemo Sabe: There are so many different factors responsible for the “all-positive” training approach that I don’t have room in a Dog Talk column to cover them all in detail. I could write an entire book chapter on the subject! As a matter of fact, in the near future I’ll be doing just that.
I think that the most noble reasons behind the “all-positive” training approach is a backlash to, as you put it, the “harsh training methods routinely employed in so many circles.”
While I do agree with you that the “all-positive” training approach is flawed, I find abusive training methods unconscionable. They do far more harm. Nevertheless, the “all-positive” training approach is a matter of “throwing out the baby with the bath water.”
I agree that this training method can undermine an owner’s ability to develop a pack leader image to their dog. Also, I believe that the biggest myth ever perpetuated about dogs is that they have a desire to follow direction from and to “please” humans. This is untrue! Dogs only desire to follow direction from a pack leader. Only when a human develops this status in the pack will their dog want to please them.
Frankly I’m surprised that the “all-positive” training approach is still in vogue. Eight or ten years ago, I dubbed it a passing fad. My impression is that it is more prevalent in some geographic areas than others. I know that it’s still somewhat prevalent in the areas of Vermont and New Hampshire where I spend some time.
I’m even more surprised that harsh dog training methods are still used. It just goes to show how sequestered my little beach-bum existence is here in South Florida! My impression is that in the area where I live, training seems to be more balanced. However, I not too immersed in the dog training scene here. I give my lessons, write my column, work on some new book ideas and take my dog to the beach.
There are more important points on this issue than I can cover in one column. Stay tuned for Part 2 on this topic next week.
Dear Dog Talk Readers: Last week I answered a question from a reader about the “all-positive” approach to dog training. The approach developed, in part, as a backlash to inappropriately harsh methods that some dog trainers use. Here’s part two of my answer.
Political correctness is definitely another contributing factor to the all-positive training approach. The thinking is, “We should treat our dogs the way we would like to be treated.” That’s a nice sentiment, but dogs are not humans. Dogs only see the world through a canine point of view. Discipline is natural to canines--even mother dog disciplines her puppies!
“All-positive” training is an anthropomorphic approach. It humanizes dogs. It is an approach that is out of tune with nature. Such an approach that is fundamentally flawed cannot help but have serious negative backlash effects.
Another factor that helped spawn the “all-positive” training approach is ambitious dog trainers who want to be celebrities in the dog training world. There are a handful of trainers who are contemporaries of mine who have helped refine traditional dog training. We learned how to correct dogs in a natural way without using abusive methods and how to use positive reinforcement to form good habits. Excellent books have been written by these trainers, teaching owners how to train their dogs.
So how does one become a dog training celebrity and move to the head of the pack? One way is to pay your dues by honing your craft and wait for the existing pack leaders to retire/die off. Another way is to “reinvent the wheel.” All-positive training is an attempt by some people to reinvent something that does not need reinventing.
I also think that the veterinary community jumped on board the “all-positive” bandwagon for their own reasons. Money! There is a lot of money to be made in the pet industry, and veterinarians were missing out on the dog training part of it.
Veterinary canine behaviorists became more abundant just as “all-positive” training came into vogue. The head halter was created by a veterinarian and widely endorsed by the veterinary community. It was promoted as a revolutionary new training tool designed to gently teach dogs controlled walking.
Head halters do stop some dogs from pulling on the leash, but they teach dogs nothing. A head halter is merely a restraint device; it is not a training tool. A dog will never learn anything by being restrained.
Now, there are even veterinary pharmacologists preaching positive training approaches. Train your dog with love, kindness and drugs!
I find that veterinarians are highly intelligent, well-educated individuals who would like to intellectualize dog training. The fact of the matter is, dog training is not rocket science. The best dog trainer I every met had a third grade education. In 1973 he told me, “Boy, you want a good dog? Teach him like his momma did, keep him tired and get him out to see the world.”
A few years back I heard a dog trainer on TV give an explanation as to why he felt “all- positive” training was becoming popular. He said, “It makes trainers feel like real trainers. They love the devices such as ‘clickers’ and terminology like ‘Conditioned Reinforcer’ and ‘Conditioned Aversive Stimuli.’” Many dog trainers think that marine mammal trainers directing dolphins and whales to do silly tricks at marine parks are cool.
I think that there is a lot of truth to the TV trainer’s observation. Sadly, what dog trainers don’t get is the fact that the dog-owning public wants to keep it simple. Pet owners are not interested in learning a new language and carrying around clicker devices. Pet owners want an easy-to-understand, commonsense training approach.
With all this said, my advice to the trainer who wrote me is to not get into a training-approach battle. If you are doing a good job with your training classes, word will spread. The people who matter are not your dog training competitors. The people who matter are pet owners who want a well-behaved, mentally balanced dog.
Keep doing what you are doing, and hone your craft. Be open-minded and listen to what other trainers have to say. One mark of a great dog obedience instructor is the ability to take in all of the information and to know how to discard the rubbish.
Instead of going after the “all-positive” crowd at your seminar, I suggest that your lecture reinforce the importance of training through a canine point of view and helping owners staying in tune with nature. Promote the canine triangle – obedience training, physical exercise and socialization. Good luck with your dog training career.
Dear Dog Talk: How do you feel about shock collars for dogs?
I have a seven-year-old female Pit Bull that takes off, any chance she gets, to a neighbor’s yard several houses away. She will not come when called, and so I have to go retrieve her.
A friend of mine is willing to help me with just a one-time use of the collar, but then I would use something else that makes her think she would get shocked.
I have not figured out any other way to stop this running off, except to keep her on a leash. We trained her to stay by us when we are in the yard working. This running off has been going on for only a few months now, but it makes us bonkers.
I read your Dog Talk column in the Pittsburgh Tribune Review.
Dear Bonkers: I don’t like shock collars, and I have never needed one to successfully train a dog. Over the past three decades, I have helped hundreds of owners train their dogs to come reliably when called without shock techniques.
However, to train a dog to come reliably come on command, an owner/trainer must first be fully aware of the many common mistakes that people often make. These mistakes will undermine getting a dog to respond correctly.
Second, the owner/trainer must use techniques that will truly condition the dog to come running in direct response to the command “Come!”
In both my Dog Talk and Adopting a Dog books, I outline in detail the common mistakes that owners make in conjunction with come on command. I also outline a series of “chase reflex” training techniques designed to condition dogs to reliably come when called. Both of these books are available in most public libraries.
These “chase reflex” techniques need to be practiced everyday for several months in order to obtain good results. I fondly refer to these come on command training techniques as “doggie sit-ups.” I make an analogy to exercise. If your goal is a flat stomach, a few days of sit-ups will not condition your abdominal muscles. However, several months of daily repetition will in all likelihood show good results.
As owners practice these training techniques with their dogs, they must be mindful not to undo their training by making counterproductive mistakes. Making these mistakes would be like eating a big ice cream sundae everyday after you finished doing your sit-ups.
Shock collars are not magic—they are nothing more than a corrective device. A severe one, in my view. If the collar were to be used effectively, the dog would first have to be carefully and painstakingly trained to come on command using an approach such as the one that I have described to you.
After the dog had been thoroughly trained, the trainer could then call the dog. If the dog did not respond the way that he was carefully conditioned, only then would it be justifiable to correct him with the collar. Here’s the caveat. After all that training, you wouldn’t need to use a shock correction! With a dog that’s well trained, a firm verbal correction, such as “Nhaa!” would do the trick.
Here are some of the misconceptions about come on command and shock collars. Some owners are looking for a quick and easy fix without having to put in the training time. Many owners think that because their dog has, on occasion, come when called that the dog “knows” what is expected of them.
There is a major difference between a dog that sometimes comes when called--because he feels like it--and a dog that has a conditioned response to the command “Come!”
Also, owners naively believe that a dog is going to understand the connection between the shock and not coming when they were called. The fact of the matter is, the shocked dog is just as likely to go running off in the opposite direction as they are to run back to the owner. In the hands of an amateur trainer, a shock collar is more than just ineffective. It can be a dangerous and potentially abusive device.
I know that there are dog trainers out there who successfully condition dogs using shock collars as a training tool. Shock collars are big with many bird dog trainers. In past years I owned a couple of gun dogs that I trained and hunted over. I never needed a shock collar in order to train my bird dogs.
My approach to training puts an emphasis on teaching in a way that is natural to dogs. I believe in staying in tune with nature and training through a canine point of view. Dogs don’t shock each other.
Thanks for reading the Dog Talk column and for taking the time to write.
Dear Dog Talk: I recently read your “Dog Talk” column in the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review. It was shared with me by a fellow dog trainer and friend in Pittsburgh.
Like most positive trainers, I consider myself a "cross-over" trainer who used aversive corrective traditional training methods in the past. I simply knew no other methods to consider. Looking back, I wish I had.
What bothers me is that I am regularly involved in discussions with “balanced,” or traditional trainers who almost always become patronizing and condescending. They try to marginalize the methods incorporated by positive trainers. We are called "treat-slingers." Scientifically documented studies of behavior are dismissed quickly with little regard.
Training with treats is not the basis of positive training methods. I am always surprised when it is suggested that treats are the only thing that we have in our collective toolboxes.
It interested me that you consider positive training a “fad or trend” that you feel should have faded away long ago. I never would have thought that methods that are humane, effective and easy, which are fun for both owner and dog, would be a bad thing. Don’t we all share the same goal, to help people enjoy their dogs and live with them without issue?
Positive training methods have been used successfully for decades by trainers and handlers who must interact regularly with large and dangerous animals such as orcas, lions, tigers, elephants, primates, etc. This fact never seems to be addressed or discussed by traditional trainers.
Are corrections only effective on smaller, less dangerous animals that are easier to control? Is there a reason that force has given way to behavioral modification, rewards and conditioning in handling, managing and working with zoo animals and sea mammals?
I am interested in knowing how positive methods have been essential and successful in communicating with other species but dismissed as ineffective and a "fad" when applied to our companion dogs.
Another statement made by "Kemo Sabe" said he felt that positive-only training has been more harmful than anything else in recent years to owners’ relationships with their dogs. I'd be interested in knowing how so?
With the guidance of a reputable positive trainer or through books, any owner can learn the reasoning behind positive methods and how to apply them effectively.
Cesar Millan (who is far from a positive trainer) states accurately the reasons why pet owners have problems. None of reasons that I have heard him give were attributed to an owner properly attempting positive training methods. Suppressing behaviors or reactions are far more dangerous and concerning. So many people are looking for a temporary quick fix solution. This is insulting to the living creatures we chose to bring into our homes.
Your writer said that two animal control directors thought they had seen an upsurge in surrenders linked to positive training. Since this is what they "thought," I cannot help but interpret this as an assumption that only two individuals made. Based on what? Did the owners write, “We tried positive methods and they didn't work" on the surrender form?
How did the animal control officers come to this conclusion? And what do these animal control officers consider an upsurge? This is misleading to the public and certainly has nothing to do with defending "balanced" training methods.
If anything, in my experience it's the other way around. The theories of dominance have been drilled into dog owner's heads that it's gone far beyond relinquishing a dog due to lack of manners. Dogs have been "dominated," jabbed and manhandled for longer than they could bear.
Even if I agreed with the dominance theories, the average dog owner hasn't a clue about what it all means to a dog. Anthropomorphism cannot be safely or effectively combined with physical dominance. Nevertheless, dog owners do it all the time for the sake of control. People want to believe that their dogs are emotional. They believe that dogs are sad, jealous, spiteful, etc. Some owners believe dogs are secretly plotting a hostile takeover of the bed, sofa or squeaky toy. They believe that dogs must be put in their place or they will “dominate” you and steal your bed and drink your beer!
When I became aware of training methods that did not involve aversive corrections or particular training tools, I became aware of something much more meaningful. I became aware that my innate love, interest and understanding of dog behavior was much easier to apply. There was reason, theory and common sense behind incorporating positive methods. Not only did this approach make sense to me, it made sense to the dogs as well as the owners that asked for my help.
There is no real need for the average dog owner to understand dog behavior in correction training, because it is a method that is a means to an end. It is not an attempt to troubleshoot, anticipate and more deeply understand a dog's motivation or a desire to enhance the dog/owner relationship.
In my experience, the norm for dog surrenders by owners in my region and within my rescue group is either that owners have tried absolutely nothing (if the surrender is due to behavior) or they've tried ”everything” but positive methods.
Dear Readers: Although personally I find many fundumental flaws in the "all positive" training approach, I thought that this was a heartfelt and well written letter. In next week’s column I’ll respond and conclude (for now) this interesting dialogue on different approaches to dog training.
Dear Dog Talk: I adopted a dog last year from our local Animal Control. He is a year-and-a-half-old Labrador Retriever mix. He is great dog, very loving and extremely playful. However, when I took him to the veterinarian for his vaccinations and check-up, he tested positive for heartworm.
Sadly, I am unable to afford to have him treated and opted to let him live life as long as he comfortably could. I am extremely supportive of him and encourage him to stay active by getting him to play with me and the other puppy that I have. He eats twice a day and always has fresh water.
The problem that I’m having is that he keeps losing weight. He has lost so much now that I can clearly see his hips and count his ribs. He eats two-and-a-half cups of food twice daily--a total of five cups a day. I’m still unable to put weight on him. I have tried mixing in some ground beef, eggs and wheat germ. Do you have any suggestions? I’ve searched online and cannot find anything.
Today when I got home from work and let him out to eat and run, he couldn’t even walk in a straight line or stay on his feet. I am aware that more than likely he will need to be put down. However, I am worried that if I take him to the veterinarian, I will be looked at as a loser pet owner who neglects his animals.
I just need some advice or guidance on trying to help him put on some weight and get back to the health he was at before his sudden weight loss. Can heartworm cause a rapid loss of weight like this over a period of six months?
Dear Anything But a Loser: I am not a veterinarian, but I do know that heartworm disease is fatal. Severe, rapid weight loss is one of the symptoms. I don’t know what you can do to help this dog put weight back on. There may be nothing that can be done. A veterinarian can answer this question more accurately.
You are anything but a “loser pet owner” because you cannot afford the high cost of treating heartworm disease. If the shelter where you adopted this dog could not afford to pay for the treatment, he in all likelihood would have already been put down. If it were a “no kill” facility, he might have died alone in a kennel run.
You have done a good thing by giving this dog a loving home in the final stage of his life. You are probably going to have to make a decision in the very near future to put this dog down. It is a hard decision to make, but letting him suffer would be wrong.
It is inexplicable to me that a veterinarian could not donate his or her services to help a dying dog and an owner who wants to provide the dog a loving home. I know that veterinarians are not in the charity business. But they can work with people if they choose to. How about cutting the treatment fee down to whatever the cost of the medications, and donating their time? How about setting up a payment plan where you pay twenty dollars a month until the bill is paid?
I know something about contributing my services to dogs. Recently, the obedience instructor who taught group classes at the humane society in the county where I live abruptly left his position. There were eight group classes that were in progress. The classes were midway through the six-week course, so I volunteered my time to the humane society to complete the sessions.
My motivation to volunteer my time was to help out the humane society so that they would not have to refund money that they desperately need. Also, I wanted to help pet owners who are trying to do the right thing by training their dogs. But mostly my motivation was to help the dogs, particularly the ones that had been adopted from the shelter. I don’t want these dogs ending up back in the shelter because of training issues.
I, too, am not in the charity business. I’m also not a rich guy sitting around looking for something to do to keep busy. However, I believe that it is imperative to give back and help dogs in need in any way that I can. Money cannot always be the motivating factor when a situation calls for a compassionate answer.
I wish you the best with the difficult time that you have ahead. If any veterinarians or other Dog Talk readers have any suggestions that might help this owner and dog, please drop me a line.
Dear Dog Talk: I have a six-month-old pug who is so sweet…when she’s sleepy! She has so much energy and requires constant attention while she is awake. She will not play by herself unless food is involved. When I try to “ignore” her, but still keep an eye on her, she gets into things. She particularly loves to chew the carpet.
We crate her at night and when she does naughty things. Our work schedule also requires us to crate her for four hour intervals during the day. Three days a week I work outside of the home, so she’s in her crate for about four hours.
My husband comes home at lunchtime to take her out, feed her and take her out one more time before he heads back to work. I’m home by 5:00 to take her out, feed her and play with her. She won’t leave us alone until bedtime when we put her in her crate again. We’ve also been putting her in her crate during our dinnertime.
Two days a week I (try) to work from home. She’s a constant pain, so I have to put her in her crate at times. An example would be during conference calls or when I really need to concentrate. I can’t just type with one hand and throw her ball with the other.
She’s also very mouthy (bites), which we’re hoping she outgrows once her adult teeth come in. She’s just started to lose some of her small milk teeth. Another strange thing is when we reach to pet her, she bites our hand. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Dear Pugged Out: Puppies are so much work. Particularly, when you’re already busy working a lot just to make a living. However, there are no shortcuts or magic wand solutions.
You need to start employing the “Canine Triangle.” You need to get Miss High-Energy Pugsley enrolled in an obedience course that teaches you how to train your dog. Pugs are typically very smart little dogs. She needs to use her brain in a constructive way--and you need to learn how to be pack leader in a gentle but assertive way. Biting your hand and mouthing have nothing to do with teething. Dog’s don’t “outgrow” these behaviors. You need to learn how to stop these behaviors by using natural methods based on training through a canine point of view.
You need an obedience course that teaches you how to effectively train your puppy to sit and lie down on command. She also needs to learn to stay, walk on a leash without pulling and reliably come when called.
As far as the biting and rug-chewing behaviors go, a well-timed corrective growl will do the trick. A firm, guttural sounding “Nhaa!” given precisely as she is about to chew the carpet or bite your hand will work, but only if you are consistent and if your puppy is under emotional control.
Being in emotional control is imperative for obedience training to be effective. Dogs that are extremely pent-up with energy are not under emotional control. You need to find a way to physically exhaust your little puglet on a daily basis. If she is not ready to sleep, you did not exercise her enough. At six months old you may have to tired her out a couple of times a day! As you said, “She is so sweet…when she’s sleepy!” Puppies are so much work.
You are mostly using you crate correctly. Crates should be used whenever you can’t supervise your puppy. However, don’t use the crate as a punishment. Sending a puppy to the crate “when she does naughty things” will not help her learn not to do those behaviors. Only well-timed corrections as the behavior is happening will teach a dog to stop repeating the unwanted behavior.
Lastly, you need to socialize your pug. A group obedience course is a great way to do this. She gets to go somewhere and see other people and dogs.
You pug puppy will not be an adult until she is around two years old. In the meantime, the way to “survive puppyhood” is to train, exercise and socialize.
Have I mentioned that puppies are so much work?
Dear Dog Talk: We were raised on a farm and have had many pets all though our life. But our favorite is our dog. Six months ago we adopted “Dex,” a full blooded Labrador Retriever. We took him for all of his vaccinations, and he is very playful. He enjoys watching the geese, and so do we! We bought him a toy that has the sound of geese. He lives in the country and has a large yard.
When I get the Sunday paper, the “Dog Talk” column is the first thing that I look for and read. The weather here in Pennsylvania is getting cool in the morning and evening, but in the afternoon the sun is beautiful.
We always had Beagles for hunting dogs. But, we no longer hunt because we can no longer walk. I haven’t any questions. I just wanted to tell you about our beautiful puppy. He’s jet black.
Dear Loyal Reader: Thanks for taking the time to write. It is a pleasure to hear from you! I get the feeling that you love your jet black dog, Dex, as much as I love my jet black dog, Sophie. Thanks for adopting a six-month-old dog that needed a home. It sounds like he found a good one. Take care.
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